Tuesday, March 24, 2026

Costa Rica - Arenal

Our ride out from Pacuare was about 45 minutes, much of which was uphill over potholes (no road in sight).

We connected with Jose, our driver guide for the next 13 days, and as we approached our new home at Arenal Amor we caught a view of the Arenal Volcano and the "Reclining Indian". 

We arrived at our new home with its sometimes view of the Volcano (which last erupted in 2010). Below: View of Arenal from our deck and from our shower on the one morning it was clear, other days it was shrouded in clouds.

At the restaurant, which also has a great view over the tropical growth to the volcano, we enjoyed a nice Torrontés wine with our sea bass and salmon.

We had lunchita (Note: Costa Ricans are referred to as Ticos due to the tendency to call things "little" using the Spanish endings "ito" and "ita") at Las Tablas in Fortuna, the closest town near our hotel. We enjoyed a nice Chardonnay with the Pork rice dish and Talapia. Below: The church in La Fortuna with Arenal behind. 

We had a Farm-to-Table tour at nearby Finca Luna Nueva Farm. The Farm is a sustainable rainforest farm, eco-lodge and restaurant located in a primary rainforest. It operates as an organic farm focused on regenerative and syntropic (symbiotic) agriculture, they have a mission to bring back the native growth using natural techniques such as growing symbiotic plants. They dedicate every bit of land to producing healthy food while regenerating topsoil and biological diversity. 

We walked along well-groomed rainforest trails learning about products such as native cacao & coffee, as well as honey from tiny stingless Mariola bees. The Mariola bee, native to Costa Rica, is known for its docility and high-quality, medicinal honey. They are just over 1/10 of an inch-long, do not sting and defend their hives by pinching. Each day they open a small round entrance which is sealed with wax for the night.

We also tasted the sweet pulp that surrounds the cacao bean.

The farm raises over 90 species of tropical fruit trees including Cardamon and Pejibaye (savory, starchy fruit with a unique flavor frequently described as a cross between a roasted chestnut and a buttered baked).

We also spotted the "Cuban cigar  plant", a unique  ornamental plant with reddish-brown cigar-shaped bracts and small, white flowers.

At the Finca Luna restaurant our meal feautred Finca Luna's products. And we were offered a range of local beers identified by the names of animals such as sloth or toucan. We met the owners (they bought into the "farm" in 1999 - 5 years after it had been established). And during our discussion we discovered that they have spent some time in San Miguel. where they have worked with soe of our local farmers.

On our way to the Arenal Volcano walk we discovered a Scarlet Macaw (top left). As soon as Bill started taking pictures it attracted a significant crowd. We were a bit embarrased at creating a traffic backup but later learned that this is normal. 

Along the walk we saw, clockwise after the Scarlet Macaw: 

  • a Viper
  • a Great Curassow
  • a Broad-billed Motmot
  • a Laughing Falcon

Threatening rain sent us to lunch at Selva Rustica where we both had corvina fish,  Bill with rosemary butter and Pat with sea food sauce.

After lunch we visited Ecocentro Danaus for the butterflies, top right to bottom right. 

  • Several varieties feeding
  • the local Monarch in caterpillar form
  • a Blue Morpho

 Along the route we saw:

  • a Keel-billed Motmot (top left)
  • a Plumed Basilisk - Green Basilisk or "Jesus Christ lizard" (so-called as it appears to run across the water)
  • a live Cayman  that looks like a cement sculpture (bottom left)

 

That evening while enjoying a wine and light snack at the Jaranita Bar we met a couple from Portland Maine!!!

On our final day at Arenal we took a jungle walk over the Hanging Bridges. We encountered a few animals during our walk including a broad-billed motmot, a spider monkey, and an anole lizard. It was an interesting experience but neither of us loved crossing the bridges!

The food scene at Amor was impressive including breakfast entrees like chorrearda (a tortilla made from ground tender corn) and a pesto omelette. Along the route to the restaurant from our room we saw a Great Currassow.

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