Boquete

An early flight got us to the David airport. After a 45 minute drive we arrived in Boquete and checked in to our accommodations at Villa Alejandro. Boquete has a large expat population, as does Cuenca (Ecuador) and San Miguel. Honestly we were curious what we would think of the competition. For us, San Miguel is the clear winner for it's easy walkability and compact urban center. The others are nice places to visit. 

We were introduced to the Bajareque upon arrival in Boquete. Anytime during the day there may be what is defined as a fine drizzle but it is more like someone was spraying the area from above with an extremely fine mist. And it comes and goes. You learn to just ignore it. No need for an umbrella.The source of the Bajareque seems to be the fog that comes and goes on the nearby mountains.

We went to lunch at the nearby Valle de Cuzco, yes a Peruvian Restaurant. Hence the picture of Bill in front of Machu Picchu. Pat really enjoyed her Shrimp & Mushrooms dish. A very fine culinary experience. 

Our afternoon introductory tour of the area took us around the city and out to Los Ladrilles, a lateral columnar basalt wall, a great draw for rock climbers. A little further up the road we stopped to appreciate a small water fall. We finished the tour with a local coffee - cappuccino for Bill and frappuccino for Pat. We wanted a light evening meal and chose Vale! Tapas y Mas for dinner. Under new management the menu did not life up to the Tapas and More name. We asked about what might be available and found that they had a nice tapas plate for two (Not listed on the menu. Go figure.)

The next morning we are hiked the Pipeline Trail where there were many birds including the seldom seen Quetzal. The difficulty in seeing birds is two fold, they hide in among the leaves and they move frequently making them difficult to see and extremely difficult to photograph. Thanks to our sharp eyed guide and some good luck we got views and photos. 

Clockwise from top left:  Resplendent Quetzal, Lesser Violetear (top), Yellow-faced Grassquit/Tanager (bottom), Black-thighed Grosebeak, Sapphire-throated Hummingbird, Spotted Crown Woodcreeper, Green Violetear, Flame-colored Tanager, Rusty-breasted Wren-warbler

There were also some interesting flora including a tree that had fallen down and was a great example of trees without rings. There are no seasons or dormant periods here causing rings to form.

Pat got tired of waiting for Bill to satisfy himself with each of the many bird photos and started exploring the plant life. She first noticed one that has a resemblance to a flamingo. Then there was the Lulo fruit (a fuzzy ball that ripens to look like an orange but once you cut into it, it is clearly not a citrus fruit.

 Clockwise from top left: Heliconia (red drooping flower), Lulo fruit, Centropogon Grandidentatus (Pat calls it flamingo flower. It is rare in cultivation and seems to lack a true common name), Begonia Grandis, Fallen down tree lacking rings, Montane Longwing (black & red wings with a bands of yellow) amidst yellow flowers.

The tour also included visiting Finca Lerida coffee plantation with lunch and a tour of the processing area. 

Key processing steps include separating the bean from the cherry (hullling), screening the beans for size, and grading the beans. The main methods used here are the Washed or wet process and the Natural sun dried or dry process. Apparently these two techniques affect mouthfeel and flavor in many ways. Most of the coffee that people drink is washed or wet-processed coffee. The Wet method is more consistent and used for producing coffee with higher acidity (for rich lush taste). In the Dry method, the coffee beans absorb the character of the drying flesh of the fruit. For the Dry method, the coffee cherries are dried in the open air and can take weeks to dry. Long strips of beans are spread out on large concrete patios. The workers rake them around 3-4 times per hour to avoid spoilage. They also produce some coffees using the Honey method which leaves some of the pulp on the beans resulting in a sweeter flavor.

They raise Geisha and Catuai coffees. Geisha coffee originated in Ethiopia but is now a major product of Panama. Due to its fruity character, it is highly valued and one of the most expensive in the world.

 At the end of the tour we had a tasting of 4 coffees (representing three processing styles and two types of beans) followed by another coffee and dessert. We returned to Villa Alejandro and our usual evening wine and snack.

Next day we had no formal tours so explored the town. First we crossed the river to preview the Flower, Coffee and Craft Festival (scheduled to open that evening). We also visited Felipe Motta Wine Store & Deli to checkout the selection (quite satisfactory). Later we headed to Mikes Global Grille for lunch. We opted for the pea soup with burgers. We returned to the Felipe Motta Wine Store & Deli for some wine and snacks for our evening meal. 

Our second tour day had the 3 Falls hike on tap. We only saw two of the three falls, the trail to number three was steep, rough and slippery. Our guide told us that seeing two was most common and that number 2 was the best. On our return to the car our guide spotted a sloth in the trees near the trail. No need to rush photos with a sloth. The difficulty here is they hide in the leaves and move very slowly making it difficult to find them.

Upon returning to Boquete we went to the Fish House for lunch. We both chose talapia with different preparations. Later we headed back across the river for a full tour of the Flower, Coffee and Crafts Festival. Quite impressive displays and many booths selling plants and many Fresas Café's selling strawberries (fresa in Spanish) with a wide range of toppings.

On our last day in Boquete we explored more of the town across the river. We had lunch at Retrogusto, stuffed mushrooms followed by pasta and risotto. Highly recommend. Another visit to the wine shop for evening snacks and it was time to pack. 

Next morning we were transferred back to David and after a short wait we were on our way to Panama City where we connected to our flight to Mexico City. We had a  long wait (~1.5 hrs) at immigration in Terminal 2, a very large crowd of people. We finally arrived home around 8PM.

Panama City

Flying Panama City based Copa Airlines, we flew over Panama City and the Canal 4 times. I expected to be most attracted to the Canal, but in fact, flying over dozens of skyscrapers was more impressive. The view from above is mesmerizing. 

We arrived at La Compania Hotel (still decorated for Christmas) in Panama City in the late afternoon. We settled into our room and then wandered out to get a Panamá phone SIM for Pat. We decided to dine in CasaCasco, a 5 story building with three restaurants, the Terraza / Rooftop bar and a disco. We had a very nice seafood dinner at Marula on the second floor. 

In the morning our introductory city tour first took us to Quarry Heights (in the former American Sector) with views over the city and of hundreds of stacks of shipping containers. On the walk to the top we spotted a group of Geoffery's Tamarins (aka Panamanian red-crested or rufous-naped tamarins). At the Mirador de las Americas there were Panama Hats (from Ecuador) for sale. From here we observed a ship in the Canal approaching the Bridge of the Americas. 

Later on our quad bike ride along Avenida Amador, we got photos of the city and the Bio Museum (a Frank Gehry design). At the Mercado de Mariscos (which we passed at least twice a day during our stay here) we had a Ceviche Tasting at Restaurante Rompeola (polpo/octupus, corvina/seabass, shrimp and an Christmas special with fruit and seabass - on  the right in the picture). Afterwards we explored the market.  

Then back to the old town. At the Church of St Joseph, just a few steps from our hotel, we viewed the golden altar and then went through the vestry to view the massive "Nativity Scene". We also checked out the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria in Plaza de la Independencia. It's altar, in pastel colors of blue & peach, is less ornate.

In the evening we went back to CasaCasco for some wine at the Terraza / Rooftop bar. We enjoyed the views over the Old Town and on to the modern skyscrapers. We had an evening snack in Exilio Bar at La Compania - some great Arancini (Italian rice balls) and a fine bottle of Negroamaro wine. 

Next day we were off to the Chagres National Park to visit a tribe of Emberá people. They are one of seven recognized Panamanian indigenous tribes. We had a dugout canoe ride up the Chagres River through the rainforest to the falls. A few brave souls were swimming in the quite cold water (but not us). 

We headed back to Emberá Tusipono Village for a trout lunch with the trout served in a large leaf along with some dried meat provided by our guide. We also had culture and craft talks by the locals. We purchased a few gifts at the craft market in the village. Before we headed back to the Old Town we watched them perform a couple dances accompanied by drums, flute, and other instruments. 

Back in Panama city we toured more of the Old Town focusing on the balconied buildings, a market, and harbor views from Plaza de Francia.  

Next day we traveled 1.5 hours across the country to the Caribbean/Atlantic side. Along the way, we stopped at the Canal Expansion Visitor Center where we watched a ship pass through the new locks. The process takes about 30 minutes. The water for the locks comes from the Chagres River. Much is stored and reused (see basins to the left of the lock below). The ships are guided and towed through with strategically placed tugboats. We also spotted a smaller ship using the old locks.

The new locks, built to accommodate much larger ships, opened in 2016. The sign in the bottom right below shows the details of the container ship we watched pass through the lock. 

On our way to lunch at Marina Hotel at Shelter Bay we stopped for a portrait with the ship passing under the Puenta Atlántico (Atlantic Bridge). After lunch we visited the ruins of Fort San Lorenzo (aka Royal Castle of San Lorenzo on the Chagres), a Colonial Military structure built by the Spanish. The fortress is at the mouth of the Chagres River (bottom left photo). Construction of the fortress spanned 1595-1599. It was attacked by Sir Francis Drake in1596, destroyed by Henry Morgan in 1671, rebuilt in1677, destroyed again in 1740 and rebuilt yet again in 1741. Before we left the area, Pat made a point of getting her feet wet in the Atlantic. 

Along our way back through the San Lorenzo National Park & Rainforest, we saw howler and capuchin monkeys, as well as a white nosed coati. We got a view of both the old and new locks from the Puenta Atlántico (bottom left photo). 

After we arrived back at our hotel, we hurried off to the waterfront so Pat could get her feet wet in the Pacific....exactly 2 hours later than when she tested the waters of the Atlantic. 

That evening meal we ate at Luigi's. one of the restaurants in the hotel. We had pizza & bruschetta with a chocolate caramel dessert with hot chocolate sauce. 

Two neighboring national parks were on tap for the next day. Parque Nacional Soberania showed us its stuff with another sloth, another coati, a broad-billed motmot and a ringed kingfisher, more hummingbirds, as well as capuchin and howler monkeys.  

After lunch overlooking the crocs and turtles lounging in the water below, we hired a boat for a cruise on Gatun Lake, a key part of the Canal system. We had some great views of another crocodile, more monkeys including a Geoffroy's tamarin (bottom center), and tiny bats resting on a tree trunk.  

As a break from observing wildlife, we checked out a couple ships passing through the canal, enjoyed the views of German WWI crane known as "Herman the German", and watched a passenger train using the tracks that predate the Canal, or perhaps more accurately were stage one of the Canal system.  

And on our way back to Panama city we had another wildlife highlight, we saw our first Toucan on the trip.

Our room was in the American sector of the hotel. There was also French & Spanish sectors. The American sector was decorated with equipment reminiscent of the early Canal building era. Our elevator was decorated with instruments to resemble a vintage time machine.  

In the morning we visited the Mola Museum, dedicated to fabric handcrafts and culture of the Kuna people of Panama who live in the coastal San Blas region. Molas are a brightly colored textile art handmade using a reverse appliqué technique. Two to seven panels of various colors of cloth are stacked and stitched together and decorated by cutting away parts of each layer. The remaining edges of the layers are then turned under and sewn down. It's a lot of work! The women make these for traditional blouses, as well as flat pieces that can be framed or used on cushions.

We really enjoyed the Greek dinner at Tavernaki (chicken Gyro & pork souvlaki and salad accompanied by Greek wine of course). The restaurant owner used to work on the Canal first for the Americans and later for the Panamanians. He entertained us for awhile telling us how brilliant the Americans were with the deign of the Canal. I hate to say it but I don't think I ever heard an American that proud of American accomplishments! The restaurant is in an old building that housed a Speakeasy. We got a peak inside as the owner told us about the old days and the special events he holds there throughout the year.

On the way to the Multiplaza Mall we saw the F&F Tower (another high-rise with a twist). The mall itself felt like most malls around the world although with a little more US flavor. 

After packing for the move to Boquete, we opted to stay in the hotel for evening snacks and wine at Exilio