Athens Again

It was the second trip to Athens for all of us and we were not so focused on the must see places. We planned to explore neighborhoods, museums, churches, shopping, and to enjoy wining and dining. We also wanted to take a cooking class. So we booked a hotel in the Psryi neighborhood, ie a bit less touristy than the Plaka, but nearby. The hotel turned out to be well located for shopping, the tourist stops and local nightlife. It is about a 20 minute walk or a 20 minute metro ride to the Acropolis. See our posting from November 2013 for our initial visit. 

We arranged a few tours in advance (a Wine & Meze/Greek snacks Tour, an Acropolis Museum Tour, a Neighborhoods Tour, and a cooking class, Eat with you Greek Cousin Dionysia.) We supplemented these tours with Rick Steves self-guided tours. (We may have visited before but none of us had been everywhere or remembered everything.) It was a good combination that we relied on throughout the trip. We booked our whole tour through Alternative Athens. We discovered them through Rick Steves book when we were looking for the cooking class. And then we discovered they offered a special self-drive tour service. More on that later.

Our first stop was the cobbler, Shelly needed some previous work fixed and Bill discovered that his sandals were coming apart. With lots of walking ahead of us, the cobbler was a critical stop.

The cobbler shop was near Syntagma Square and the timing was good. We had wrapped up with the cobbler and realized we were nearby Parliament "on the hour" and just in time to see the Changing of the Guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier.  We joined the crowd and enjoyed the full ceremony.

Later we learned a couple tricks to seeing the guards up close. Shortly before the hour be on Leof. Vasilissis Sofias Street (it exits to the NE from Syntagma Square). The guards are stationed behind the Parliament Building and start the "Change Ceremony" from there. At the ceremony the viewers are held well back from the guards. On the street they are just as formal but way more accessible. An alternative is to view the ceremony and then follow the guards as they return to the barracks.

Little known fact: The guards are selected from those serving their military duty ....guards must be within a certain height range and must be able to grow a bushy mustache. The guards are paired up to be near twins based on their stature and mustaches.

We moved on, more or less following R Steves Athens City Walk...which happens to include following Ermou & Metropoleos Streets, noted for their shopping. We also visited several noted churches:

• Church of Kapnikara: a Byzantine church dating from 1000 AD
• The Orthodox Cathedral / Mitropolis: basically the Greek Vatican, it is relatively modern built in 1842 but the interior has classic Byzantine features.
• Church of Agios Eleftherios: built in 12 & 13C AD when the Parthenon was taken over by the Ottomans as a Mosque. Referred to as the Old Greek Vatican,  made of recycled stones from older monuments
• The Holy Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary aka the Panagia Chrysospileotissa: built in late 1800's, it is closer to our hotel.  Dormition refers to the passing of the Virgin Mary from earthly life. And Panagia is one of the titles of the Virgin Mary, used in  Orthodox Christianity. Apparently referring to Mary by name is avoided. Hence "Dormiton" and "Panagia". We have yet to discover the reason for the Chrysospileotissa part of the name. It has striking architecture.

Top L-R: The Orthodox Cathedral, Church of Kapnikara, The Cathedral (interior);
Bottom L-R Church of Agios Eleftherios, Holy Church of the Dormition

We had the Guided Wine and Mezes (snacks) Tour that evening. Getting there took us by various squares crowded with tables and diners and lots of small restaurants our guide pointed out. Unfortunately we had only a few nights and would only get to sample a couple. The tasting was good but we had hoped for more traditionally Greek mezes, not cheeses and breadsticks. However the wines were interesting. After the tasting, our guide recommended a very popular but down to earth seafood place, Atlantikos. We enjoyed the seafood including a big fish (sea bream) and little fishies (anchovies).

The next two days we spent wandering / exploring the area between our hotel and the Acropolis Museum. 

Nearby our hotel is Hadrian's Triumphal Arch. The monument, 59 feet high and 42 feet wide, has two identical façades. Two inscriptions are carved on the architrave (the lintal beam across the top), one on each side: the first, on the side towards the Acropolis reads "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus", the second, on the other side, "corrects" or updates the first, saying "This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus".

Also nearby is the Roman Forum and the Tower of the Four Winds (1C BC).The Tower combines the functions of a clock, a weather station and a planetary guide. The top of the tower is engraved with angels depicted as bringing types of weather (rain spilling from an upside down urn, the rudder of a ship for good sailing weather, an old man wrapped in a cloak against the cold, an angel with a robe full of fruit for summer, and more.)

The skyline of Athens; Pillows for sale decorated with Frida Kahlo (Mexican artist & 2nd most beloved Mexican female after Saint Guadalupe); Colorful metal wine carafes for sale; Tower of the Four Winds with Acropolis in background; Hadrian's Triumphal Arch.

From the Roman Forum, we headed to the Ancient Greek Agora, the ancient gathering place for meeting others, shopping, business meetings, worship, conduct government affairs, etc. We explored The Stoa of Attalos, formerly an ancient shopping mall and now a museum. Some of our favorites pieces are in the collage below. They are:

• Top Left: 4 vessels, left to right:
• Terracotta female head ca 400 BC
• Terracotta head of a warrior 420-400 BC
• Fragmentary plastic vase in the form of Dionysos' head 410 BC
• Terracotta figurine of a draped child 4th cent BC
• Top Center: a goddess, possibly Aphrodite
• Top Right: Herm in the form of a Silenus (2C AD). It probably served as a fence-post
• Bottom Left: Perfume bottle in the form of a kneeling athlete binding a ribbon about his head as a symbol of victory ca 540 BC
• Bottom Right: Amphoras

Also in the Agora is the Temple of Hephaestus which is amazingly complete. It was built to honor the god of metal workers and craftsmen. From the same era as the Parthenon, it served as Christian era church from 7AD until 1834 when it became a museum. Later it was restored to the more original form that we see today.

On the hillside behind are the Old National Observatory (white with blue roofs) and the Agia Marina Church.

Diagonally across the Agora, close to the Acropolis, is the Church of the Holy Apostles from 1 AD. Built with 4 arms extending out from the central dome, making the shape of a Greek cross, it became the prototype for later churches. 

Heading onward from the Agora we see ruins of the 2C AD Hadrian's Library built for Hadrian's beloved city.

Temple of Hephaestus, Church of the Holy Apostles, Hillside with Old National Observatory  and the Agia Marina Church. View of Parthenon from below, Hadrian's Library

Leaving the Agora, we headed toward the Plaka to find an ATM. While waiting for Bill & Dave to get some cash, Shelly either struck up a conversation with a guy from one of the restaurants or let herself be drawn in. They seemed to have a great conversation....so we decided to eat there (Maiandros Restaurant). It turned out to be a fine choice.  

From there we had a 30 minute walk to the National Archeological Museum, located in the north of the city. It is home to many of the original artifacts from all over Greece. The original sites mostly have copies of the precious items found there. Among some of the more eye-catching exhibits included:

• Theatre masks: In ancient Greece, actors wore masks made of wood or linen cloth, and with basic features to indicate the sex, age, character and morals of the heroes. On display were marble masks which was confusing as they are impossible to wear. It turns out these were used for theater related decoration..
• Bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon. Found in the sea of Cape Artemision, in northern Euboea. The god, shown in great stride, extends his left arm before his body, while holding a thunderbolt or trident in his right hand. His identification as Zeus or Poseidon is controversial (the former identification is more probable). It is the work of a great sculptor of the early Classical period. ca. 460 BC.
• Silver rhyton: as head of a bull with golden horns and forehead adorned with a gold rosette. Royal Tomb IV at Mycenae. 16th century BCE. Note: A rhyton is a type of drinking vessel, typically having the form of an animal's head, with a hole for drinking at the bottom.
• Gold jewelry/treasure of Mycenae
• Group of Aphrodite, Pan and Eros: Made of marble and found on Delos. Island. The nude goddess Aphrodite attempts to fend off the goat-footed god Pan who makes erotic advances to her. She holds her sandal threateningly in her right hand, while the winged god Eros comes to her aid.
• Jockey bronze statue: (ca. 140 BC) was recovered from a ship wreck near Cape Artemision (off the island of Euboea, just north of Athens). The first parts of the equestrian statue were recovered in 1928, with more pieces found nearly 10 years later.  

We took a taxi back to our Guided tour of the Acropolis Museum. The striking building featuring  glass, concrete and steel opened June 20, 2009. Apparently the prime impetus for the building was to demonstrate how well prepared Greece is to preserve their treasures (think Elgin Marbles) that are currently "under the care" of the British Museum. The focus of the museum is on the Acropolis (duh) at it's peak, 480-400 BC.

Our guide had a fascinating way of bringing context to the exhibits. She told a hypothetical story of a young Athenian man. It started with him making an offering to one of the gods to bless his relationship with a young lady. Her presentation followed their life through him becoming a respected elder and involved with the decisions to restore the temples on the Acropolis Hill. Strangely, when observing such ancient artifacts, it is hard to realize that many works were achieved in a life-time. The story helped!

Some samples of items on exhibit:

• Pillar with an offering to Asclepios: Marble part of a human face, placed in a niche of a hollow post meant to receive dedications. It was dedicated by Praxias after his wife's eyes were cured.
• Theatrical masks: Slab with six theatrical masks, probably from the decoration of the stage of the Theater of Dionysos.
• Reconstruction of the West pediment of Parthenon: The West Pediment illustrated the contest between Athena and Poseidon during their competition for the honor of becoming Athens' patron. The East pediment portrays the story of the birth of Athena.
• Sculptures of beautiful ladies, called The Caryatids, designed to serve as columns on the pagoda of the Erechteion Temple, with extra support provided by their massive braids. The Caryatids which can be seen at the Erechtheum (one of the few remaining buildings on the Acropolis) are faithful copies since the five remaining originals are here in the museum for their protection, conservation, and restoration.

About the sixth original Caryatid, well she was abducted by Thomas Bruce, the seventh Lord Elgin, who served as Great Britain’s ambassador to the Ottoman Empire at the beginning of the nineteenth century. She is now part of the booty at the British Museum.

After our tour we hurried back to the cobbler to retrieve Bill & Shelly's shoes. Heading back to the hotel we decided to dine at the Athinalkon Restaurant. Another good choice.

The next day, up for some more wandering, we went to the Acropolis.

As you approach the Acropolis, you pass two historic theaters

• The Theatre of Dionysus (supported by Atlas)...dedicated to Dionysus, (the Greek god of wine, merriment, and theatre),  was used as a theatre from 6C BC onwards. It was the first and largest theatre to be built in Athens and could seat up to 17,000 people. Modified and expanded over the centuries, it is the oldest Greek theatre and is the site where some of the most famous Greek plays from antiquity were first performed.
• The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was originally built in 161 AD for music concerts. It was restored in 1950 and since 1955 is one of the main venues of the annual Athens and Epidaurus Festival.

Earliest accounts indicate the Acropolis had a fortified compound in the Bronze Age, built to protect the local ruler and his family. In 6C BC a Doric Temple was added.  Around 490 BC, the Athenians started building a majestic marble temple known as the Old Parthenon. In 480 BC, the Persians attacked and destroyed the Old Parthenon and most other structures at the Acropolis. 

During the Golden Age of Athens (460 BC to 430 BC) Pericles initiated a massive building project that lasted 50 years. Key landmarks added:

• The Parthenon: An enormous Doric-style temple that remains the star attraction. It featured ornate sculptures and housed a spectacular statue of the goddess Athena.
• The Propylaea: A monumental entryway to the site that included a central building and two wings, one of which was covered with elaborately painted panels
• The Temple of Athena Nike: A small Ionic-style temple located to the right of the Propylaea built as a shrine to Athena Nike.
• The Erechtheion: A sacred Ionic temple honoring Athena is the most charming structure. Made of marble, it is best known for its porch supported by six Caryatid maiden statues.

Under Roman rule, many temples at the Acropolis were converted to Christian churches. The Parthenon was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the Erechtheion became a chapel. The Parthenon was later converted to a mosque (under the Ottomans) and used for munitions storage (under the Venetians). In 1687 the Venetians then bombarded the Parthenon and its munitions depot.  Guess what. Yep, it became a skeleton especially with the follow-on help of looters, vandals and tourists scavenging building material and souvenirs.

The worst scavenger of them all was the seventh Earl of Elgin, who with the permission of the then Ottoman government in 1801 began moving treasures to Britain for "safe keeping". The most notable being "The Elgin Marbles", the magnificent sculptures from the Pediments (the upper parts of the peaked front and back of the building). Full scale replicas are in the Acropolis Museum, waiting hopefully for the return of the originals in Britian.

Cool facts:

1. The architects used multiple optical illusions with the Parthenon. For instance, the columns lean ever so slightly inward toward each other which helps them appear parallel. This has also helped it withstand earthquakes.
2. On our return visit to Athens, Alejandra, Bill & I had a guided tour of the Acropolis. The tour was interesting with a folklore emphasis. As we were walking along the rim of the Acropolis the wind blew our guides hat off. Instead of sailing over the edge, it landed perfectly on Alexandra's head! Maybe that was thanks to Athena coming to our aid?

After a light lunch we toured the National Garden (it wraps around parliament and the tomb of the unknown soldier). As we were leaving the garden by the north exit, we encountered the Guards heading for the parliament. This lead to our earlier hint about seeing the Guards up close and personal. 

That evening, we were collected near our hotel and taken to Glyfada for our cooking class with Dyonesia.  After enjoying some appetizers she had prepared in advance we made 2 dips (tzatziki and spicy cheese), pita and helped prepare the meat for the gyros. She uses a trick of grilling the meat in pieces and then inserting cooked pieces on the skewer so they can be sliced off in a traditional fashion.

A nice selection of wines including a retsina. Given its reputation, I can't believe we tried it. AND we actually enjoyed it noting that it left the delightful impression of a pine forest. Maybe Retsina is underrated? We have little experience to go on. 

On our last day we had a Neighborhoods Tour to see more of the "real" Athens. After meeting our guide we headed to Kolonaki, an elegant, trendy neighborhood of modern Athens. It has been the place to live since Greek independence with its location being near the country's then new governmental center. 

 

We first stopped at Hadrian's Reservoir, the terminus of the aqueduct that brought water to Athens during the Roman era. It was abandoned until it was reconstructed in the 1800's and used until the new system was completed in the 1930's). 

Just a few blocks away on Dimaki Street is a single family home totally surrounded by apartment buildings. At least one family wanted to keep their own home. 

Between Panepistimiou Street and Akadimias Street, the Akademia of Athens was built in the 1870's and 1880's as part of an architectural "trilogy" including the University and the National Library. Since 1926 it has been Greece's national academy and research center and today includes a large digital library. 

 At the far end of the trek was the Omonia neighborhood and Kotzia Square (where ancient tombs, an ancient street and parts of the city's fortifications are visible). Also in this neighborhood  is the Central Municipal Market and many shops frequented by the locals.  

We headed back through the Psyri neighborhood with its many restaurants and shops (our hotel was located here). The area is very lively in the evenings. Our tour ended in Monastiraki with a quick peek at the ruins inside the metro station. Throughout the tour we noted many recently deserted buildings, evacuated due to the commercial downturn in Greece before and during the Pandemic.

Top: The lonely single family house, the Akademia. 
Bottom: ruins at Monastiraki metro, deserted mall, ruins at Kotzia Square.

Before leaving us, our guide recommend we have lunch nearby at the Attic Restaurant rooftop. The food was great and comes with an Acropolis view. The burrata cheese with nuts, strawberries, tomatoes and balsamic vinegar was extra special.

We used the remaining time to pack for our early morning departure to Delphi.

We had asked the hotel staff to order transportation for us to get to the rental car office. We were a little concerned when they ordered only one taxi, after all we were four people with luggage for 5-6 weeks. We shouldn't have worried. The taxi driver got very creative in packing our luggage into his taxi.

Santorini Take 2

Santorini is simply gorgeous. Its mesmerizing beauty is thanks, in part, to a massive volcanic eruption around 1610 BC that destroyed the early settlements and reshaped the island. It now curves around roughly 2/3 of the caldera. Over the centuries, numerous small eruptions have continued resulting in the two small islands inside the caldera...as if designed for anchoring spots for the sunset cruises.

In cliffside villages, white houses with blue window trim adorn the clifftops of the caldera. Lovely churches and the occasional remains of a windmill add to the beauty. These amazing views transform to other amazing views at sunset. and morning haze creates yet another spin on the beauty. Paths along the hillsides connect the villages. Roads are mostly limited to the hilltops and inner parts of the island.

And as an added appeal to us, much of the non-touristy area of Santorini is covered with vineyards, mainly planted with Assyrtiko grapes. These make a fine wine, we'll talk about that later.

A lesser known appeal of Santorini is that it offers a chance to explore some of the oldest ruins of Greece, in fact, of probably anywhere. Akrotiri, a Minoan city of 30,000 inhabitants at its peak, was first settled in 5C BC and destroyed by the eruption in 16C BC. Neighboring ancient Thera was settled even earlier but only Roman ruins are left to explore...still impressive.

What does one do on Santorini? Well there is always lounging in your cliffside rental, soaking in your hot tub and in the beauty surrounding you. But if you'd like more variety, you can:

• explore the cute towns with their great selection of shops and restaurants along with endless enchanting views
• seek out the perfect spot for sunset views from well-situated restaurants, a sailboat or anywhere you happen to be that includes a view of the cliff-sides and the sea
• sample the selection from a few of the many fine wineries
• checkout the local landmarks including churches, a lighthouse, the Red Beach, the White Beach and the Black beach
• visit the ruins and the museums

It was plenty to keep us busy for 6 days, even after having visited for a week previously (in 2013).

Arriving at our rental we were captivated by the breathtaking view, We knew we'd have to share the view with passer-byes but discovered the view was so special that it attracts wedding photo shoots and even glamour shots with flowing colorful dresses.

First things first. We needed local phone service to support out on-line habit...really to support our use of google maps to get around and WhatsApps to keep in touch with various services along our way. We headed to the Vodafone office with a stop for lunch at  the Aegean Restaurant, visible from our rental, and recommended by our rental agent. Great seafood. Good enough that we returned later with Dave & Shelly.

As we continued along the cliffside walk to the Vodafone office, we passed by the Da Costa restaurant where we had enjoyed an unusually specular sunset on our trip in 2013.

Searching for a sunset is a popular pass time here. Since most of the restaurants, bars, and accommodations face west, it is more difficult to choose between options than to find a fine sunset view.  And evening sunset cruises add another option for sunsets, as well as

some interesting shots of the coastline.

Views from our sunset cruise

On our way to the southern tip of the island we stopped at Santos for our first wine tasting. They offer a nice selection of nibbles to complement the wines.

Before visiting Ancient Akrotiri, we stopped to look at the nearby lighthouse and to checkout the view back to our apartment.

Akrotiri ancient & modern. Top right photo shows a view back to our rental at the top left.
Bottom photo shows a triangular town square bordered by a 2 story housing complex.

This was the stop that opened our eyes. We knew we would be exploring ancient sites. But we hadn't comprehended just how ancient. The earliest evidence for human habitation of Akrotiri seems to be as early as the fifth millennium BC (5000 BC to 4001 BC). By the end of the third millennium, it had developed to an estimated population of 30,000. Later (16C) an eruption buried the city under a thick blanket of ash and pumice, resulting in a time capsule for discovery 35 centuries later.

We went to The Wine Bar in Imerovigli for a tasting and some sunset snacks. We enjoyed the Mediterranean Nachos: toast with feta cheese, fresh & sundried tomato, green pepper, and onion. We concluded our evening with some bubbles and a nice sunset.

A stop in Oia, at the northern tip of Santorini is a must. While strolling and shopping our way along through the lanes and shops (some of the best shops on the island), we paused at Flora Comfort Cuisine for a quick bite. The tomato keftedes (fried tomato balls) were especially good.

Our wandering brought us to the far end of town and to the view point featuring iconic Santorini architecture, windmills and all.

Along the way we spotted some riders on mules ascending from the Amoudi fishing village, a strenuous 500 foot climb.

For one day we had scheduled an afternoon wine and food pairing at Sigalas. We decided to fill in the morning with a visit to Ancient Thera. The city was founded in the 9C BC and continued to be inhabited until the early Byzantine period (3C AD). The preserved ruins are from the Roman phase of the city. It is located on Mesa Vouno, 396 m/1300 ft. above sea level. Note the road leading up to the site (top left photo). It is a delightful place but we had to cut the exploration a bit short in order to make it to our tasting. 

Lunch at Sigalas proved to be a very special wine tasting and food pairing. It started with an informative walk through the vineyards which included details about the way Assyrtiko vines are maintained (the vines are wrapped to fit in a circular protective hole in the ground) and how the red varieties do better in the more traditional upright style.

Assyrtiko vines growing in round pits to withstand the wind and preserve moisture.

The tasting was extra special with 3 styles of Assyrtiko, a Mavrotragano (red) and a Vin Santo with 5 perfectly matched gourmet food courses from salad through seafood, meat, and dessert. Each of the wines was great. This was, hands down, the most perfect food and wine pairing we have ever experienced.

For our final day on the island, we visited the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, which has a significant collection of items found at the Akrotiri site.

There were the traditional assortment of ceramic vessels (ewers, amphoras, urns, basins), elaborate wall frescoes, scale models of the town, and a precious Golden figurine of an Ibex. Some of the simpler frescoes show rosettes, geometric work, and even monkeys. More elaborate frescoes depict adolescent fishermen, as well as adventures and explorations of early Aegean seafarers.

Heading back to our rental, we checked out a couple churches, the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral (framed with giant arches) and the Catholic Cathedral (baroque structure of blue-gray and cream with touches of peach). We noted a painting of Mexico's favorite lady and saint: Guadalupe. We strolled on through the shops and restaurants along the cliffside. One shop caught our eye...with a very cool cat T-Shirt.

After some photo stops we chose Onar for another Assyrtiko and seafood lunch.

Later in the afternoon we drove to the Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum (say that 3 times fast...or even try saying it once...) for some history of the industry here on Santorini. And of course, for another wine tasting...

Here are some facts about Red Wine that we learned in one exhibit. We have the back up details in a photo but it is too busy to post. Read it and you'll see how healthy it can be. But they forgot to mention a key benefit: Many wines (even most wines if you are selective) taste good!

Red Wine: 10 Unbelievable Benefits

• It helps you lose weight
• It strengthens the brain
• It cures gum disease
• It fights fatigue
• It releases endorphins
• It cleans the palette
• It reduces cholesterol
• It is perfect for the heart
• It reduces the risk of cancer
• It helps in the fight against urinary infections

Continuing on we found the following advice:

Of course we couldn't forget that one last Assyrtiko (and more) tasting.

And in closing, we'd like to share some of the churches we encountered on our wandering around Santorini.  Note: This is a very small portion of what we saw, and an extremely small portion of what there are.

Mexico City and onwards to Greece

We launched our journey with a brief visit with Alejandra in Coyoacan, one of our favorite parts of Mexico City. We often spend a night in Mexico City before flights to avoid any stress from the unpredictable travel time from SMA (from 3.5-7 hours depending on traffic and construction).

In this case, Bill needed an International Drivers license and, coincidentally, it was available for pick up ONLY in Coyoacán. Very convenient.  And well, it is a very short walk to Oasis Coyoacán, and since I (Pat) always need to shop...

Lunch after some shopping

Coyoacán has  a large number of museums including Frida Kahlo's house, La Casa Azul, as well as  León Trotsky's House. On this trip we first visited  the Museo Nacional de la Acuarela Alfredo Guati Rojo, literally a few steps down the street from Alejandra's house. There was a showing and competition of some very fine works. We were amazed and delighted to see a painting of  Portland Headlight, a renowned lighthouse from Portland Maine. The first prize winner was more traditionally Mexican. 

Portland Headlight

First Place

by Gerardo Arizmendi Echegaray

One evening, we shopped at Casa del Obispo Galeria de Arte Popular in nearby San Angel. This gallery has one of the best collections  of high quality Mexican folk art anywhere.  A perfect stop for Alejandra and Pat to select a gift for Paul, a GSB classmate whom we later visited in Greece (see future posting about Kardamyli).

Casa del Obispo Galeria de Arte Popular 

From there we moved on for dinner at the San Angel Inn, a long time favorite of ours and of Alejandra's. Located in a former monastery, as beautifully decorated  as you might imagine for a special fiesta centered around a lovely courtyard & fountain. The service and cuisine live up to the ambience. We arrived without reservations and the place looked full. Yet they set up a table near the fountain for us.

Sea bass Vercruz Style (one of Bill's favorites)

If we had had more time we could have crossed the street to visit Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo. No matter, interesting as it is, we've been there and can easily return another time.

One morning we enjoyed brunch with Alejandra at Club Campestre. On offer there was a nice fusion of Mexican and international cuisine.

Chilaquiles with Bacon (or maybe cecina, an air dried meat)

Later our wandering took us by the Mercado de Coyoacán. A delightful, colorful market. This is a great market to visit because of the high quality of the products and how beautifully everything is displayed.

Fruit & Vegetables below / Supplies & Toys suspended above

A great selection of moles

It turns out that while we were there, the city of Coyoacán was celebrating its 500th anniversary. Yep, it became formally a city and the first capital of New Spain in 1522 (or maybe 1521). 500 years ago! Actually the city is much older. In the 12th century, a group of Tepanec peopIe migrated there and built on the site of a pre-Columbian settlement. And who knows how old the original settlements were?

Colorful sign in recognition of the 500th anniversary

At the Casa de Cultura Jesus Reyes Heroles there was a special exhibition for the 500 Anniversary celebration. Prior to the Opening Ceremony, we explored the grounds and found this delightful statue. 

"El beso del dragón" (The kiss of the dragon) by Luis E. Nava.

We planned to stay for the opening, but didn't. It involved the traditional half hour (or more) of thanks and recognition of everybody involved with the exhibit, as well as, the folks it honored. I don't think we'll ever really appreciate this part of the traditional Mexican courtesies. Unfortunately it is even harder to appreciate when you are still struggling with basic Spanish, which admittedly we are. 

Then.... we are off to Greece.  

We used FF miles to snag business class seats. The Mexico City to Frankfurt leg was 11 hours or so, but time passed quickly and comfortably. After all, we had very comfortable fully reclining seats. And the food and drink were excellent. Not your normal airplane food. Imagine starters of: Caramelized Peach, Serrano Ham, Cashew Nuts coated with with puffed Amaranth Praline, and Asparagus marinated with Apple Vinaigrette.  

For our mains we both chose: Roasted Sea Bass with Lemon Butter, grilled Baby Corn, Cherry Tomato, fried Basil, Quinoa with Shiitake Mushrooms and sautéed Spring Onions. We each chose a cheese plate for dessert (Cheddar, Chihuahua and Camembert Cheese, with Cranberry Chutney) accompanied by a Jacquart Champagne Brut. Very nice. We also had a nice Cognac (says the girl who claims to not like Cognac). It was Bache Gabrielsen Triple Cask. 

At the lounge in Frankfurt we followed this up with two very fine sparkling wines. Bouvet Saphir Vintage 2019 Brut de Loire Methode Tradionnelle and Saumur Brut Methode Tradionnelle. I'd be delighted to buy some of either if I could find it in Mexico.

A surprising discovery was that across the aisle from us, a young couple with an infant were delivered a crib that was attached to the front of the bulkhead seat. We chatted with them a bit and learned that amazingly they had been upgraded from economy and hadn't even requested it. Wow!

We arrived in Athens shortly after midnight and marked a little time at the nearly deserted airport before heading to the gate for our flight to Santorini at 5 am. 

Arriving in Athens at midnight

Departing Athens for Santorini at 7am

Dave & Shelly had planned to arrive the evening before us; however they suffered a one day delay and did not arrive in Santorini until after we did. Luckily we had scheduled a weeklong stay so we all had ample time for our visit there.

And speaking of time, our range of destinations and sites were all the more interesting due to the time span they represent, extending back so far it is nearly incomprehensible. 

For perspective, we developed a calendar to help us get a sense of when the places & civilizations thrived. The thing that caught us by surprise is that Greece experienced its own "dark ages" period from 1100 - 800 BCE, 1500 or so years before the European Dark Ages (5C - 10C). Actually there is little detail on just how "dark" Greece's Dark Ages were because there is little information re Greek life that survives the period...this seems to be part of the reason for the "Dark Ages" name. (Note: We found quite a range of time periods for the "Events" on our chart. We picked ballpark numbers for simplification. That said, we are quite certain of the last two dates on the Greek timeline.)