Guayaquil

We moved on to lower, warmer climes in Guayaquil. The drive through the Cajas National Park (where we had hiked a few days before) included a steep, narrow section of detour in an area that had been closed due to a landslide. Quite scary but we knew our driver had done it the day before, so we were fairly confident all would be fine. 

We stopped for lunch after we reached lower altitudes. Pat thoroughly enjoyed the fried whole Covina she had for lunch. Note: The round yellowish bits on the top left of the plate are the traditional fried banana slices we had throughout our stay in Ecuador. We failed to appreciate them, to us they were just dry, mildly flavored fried bits, not worth the calories.

Guayaquil's major draw is it's airport, ie it is mainly a transportation hub. But we decided to stay a few days to check out the city. In recent years, the waterfront area has been seriously renovated from a slum to The Malecón (a waterfront promenade) with high rise hotels & apartments, restaurants, art galleries, an amusement park with a giant wheel, a shopping center and more.  

It turned out to be an interesting time to visit to experience their unique New Year's customs.

One we heard of and saw one such incident, the New Year Viudas (widows of the old year). For this, men dress-up in drag, using balloons to enlarge their bosoms, and wearing high heels, short skirts and female wigs. They then stop traffic to ask for small donations to fund their NY Eve parties.

Another involves making or buying effigies (known locally as Manigotes) of politicians, celebrities and cartoon characters. The effigies are made from papier-mache and stuffed with paper and fireworks. They represent the Año Viejo (the old year). These are burned a midnight to leave behind all of the trials and tribulations of the previous year and welcome better luck in the coming one. 

And of course there are firework shows, some organized by the city and others start after midnight when hundreds of small family displays erupt across the city often lasting into the wee hours of New Year’s Day. 

Our city tour took us along a route with a wide variety of Manigotes for sale.  They are displayed in many ways in the days leading up to New Year. In Parque Seminario, a street cleaner had one on his cart. And we saw them on cars. 

Our first tour stop was Mirador Cerro Paraiso with views to the east of city and the river as well as of a few birds including a Saltator maximus (top right below) and a Blue-gray tanager (bottom center). Later at the Plaza de la Administración we encountered a flock of Red-masked parakeets. The Parque Semenario is known for the many Green Iguanas that live there. They like bananas and the park staff leave a stash to feed them. Before returning to the hotel we stopped to see the 40 foot tall Monkey Machín Sculpture. Consisting of 110,000 ceramic tiles, the statue is based on the monkey in a children's story. 

We also visited Parque Centenario and Bolivariano Parque, the latter honoring Simon Bolivar, liberator of Ecuador. Parque Semanario is across from the Metropolitan Cathedral. We noted two statues representing Liberty. Nearby was the "II Division de Ejercito Libertad" home to the 2nd division of the Liberty Army with an intriguing mural in the lobby. At the Plaza de la Administración we had a chance to view many of the floats from the holiday festivities. And a nice man allowed us to have our picture taken with him. Bill decided to read along with him (only using a Kindle edition of a book.

During our wandering in Guayaquil we noted a wide range of architecture including the modern Point Skyscraper (spiral building), the colonial home to the 2nd division of the Liberty Army, the birthday cake look of the Iglesia Católica Rectoral San José, the wrought iron and glass Palacio de Cristal built in1907(designed and built by representatives of Gustave Eiffel) and the giant ferris wheel on the Malecón.

We enjoyed an excellent lunch at La Regatta Comida de Mar at the north end of the Malecón near our hotel. Our starter was Pear salad infused in red wine, mixed leaves, smoked almonds, parmigiano reggiano (24 months), balsamic vinaigrette, and strawberries. The main was Grilled fish of the day with mashed potatoes (achiote, beet, cauliflower and broccoli, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, black leek sauce accompanied by chips

Later we picked up some snacks and Prosecco to celebrate the New Year.

New Years Day was clear and not as unbearably hot as expected. Around 9am we headed out to climb the 444 steps (numbered on the right hand side) up Santa Ana Hill to El Faro (lighthouse), a Chapel and Naval Museum.Along the way we passed restaurants, cafes, art galleries, internet cafes and craft shops. At the top there are great views. The museum looked closed but as we peered in to check it out, the security guard came over and unlocked the gate for us. We were very glad we did this climb early as it got much hotter. 

For lunch we had caesar salad and grilled meats at Caramela near our hotel. We enjoyed the Maipo Merlot. Bill slipped a few bites of meat to a very polite, expectant cat. You can take that word "expectant" two ways. She was expecting both food and a family.

Our last day we walked the full length of the Malecón checking our the shops and entertainment options. Later we prepared for our flight to Panamá.

Cuenca

We moved on to Cuenca, at 8399ft it is about 1000 ft lower than Quito. The apartment on Benigno Malo was near the Rio Tomebamba (River), 2-3 blocks from the center of Cuenca and in a neighborhood with many nearby restaurants. Our host showed us the way to Pizzo Tr3s for dinner. 

Our City Tour started with a view from the Church of Turi and an unexpected but fantastic visit to Eduardo Vega's Gallery with his gorgeous ceramics. No, we did not leave empty handed but sadly, our purchases were limited by available luggage space.

Next up: Homero Ortega Panama Hat Museum & Factory where Bill selected his new hat which was then neatly trimmed and beautifully boxed.

The French architecture in the center of Cuenca resulted from the visit of a team of  French and Spanish scientists who came to Ecuador to investigate the earth's shape. The Mercado had great looking vegetables, fruit, legumes, herbs for medicinal purposes and more, including stalls selling meat from whole roasted pigs. 

Heading back to our neighborhood we viewed the hanging houses along the Rio Tomebamba (River). They spill down several levels from the Calle Larga (Street) near our apartment to the banks of the river.

We had lunch along Calle Larga at El Mercado (corvina/sea bass for Bill & pulpo/octupus for Pat). We enjoyed the  view over Rio Tomebamba and another bottle of Enigma Chardonnay.  After lunch we went to a SuperMaxi across the river navigating the 7 flights of stairs in the collage above, an umbrella covered bridge over the Rio Tomebamba and the Parque de la Madre in order to get some breakfast items and evening snacks.  The purple umbrellas on the bridge are in memory of the victims of Femicide in Ecuador in 2014. The bridge is inscribed with the names of the victims. 

Timing is everything, the next day (Christmas Eve Day) we watched an hours worth of the Paseo del Niño Viajero parade with men, women, children and bands passing down the main street for what we were told was 8 to 12 hours. Some very nice costumes and cute kids. Many folks carried a baby Jesus to be blessed. 

We returned to El Mercado for lunch to sample their Gorgonzola Fondue and added an Andean Stout desert (Kumquats, chocolate ganache, candied almonds, Stout). Later we walked to the "Wine Store" where we selected a Chateaunerf du Pape, a Nero Davola and a Primitivo to complement our evening repasts.

Christmas Day we went to another fine local restaurant, El Jardin, for afternoon dinner.  Not exactly a traditional New England style meal with:

• El Jardín Salad: Mixed greens sliced apples, blue cheese and caramelized pecans
• Beef Tenderloin Medallions: sauce (pepper, fine herbes, bernaise) potatoes gratin and artichokes (Pat)
• Salmon with Sesame Crust (Bill)
• Pecan Pie with Ice Cream (Pat)
• Chocolate Molten Cake (Bill)

In Ecuador it's pretty quiet on Christmas and the day after. This gave us a chance to work review our photos, draft some content for the blog and do some more work planning our upcoming trip to Florida, especially Walt Disney World, where reserving both dining and rides appears to be essential these days.

We took a stroll along the river and back through the center before a light lunch at the Taj Majal (yep, Indian food) the day after Christmas. Along the way we discovered another a couple open galleries. We especially enjoyed talking with the artist and admiring the fanciful enameled work at the Miguel Illescas C. Gallery of Arte. And Pat found a sign that told us the way back to Mexico.

The next day we were off to Cajas National Park. Our touring took us up to 13,000 feet (the highest point in the park is 14,800). Getting to the park, we drove along a bit of the Inca Trail, a piece of the network of roads used by the Incas to control their empire. In the case of the Incas, all roads lead to Cusco (Peru).   

We started the visit at a lower altitude, wandering around a pond with some interesting wildlife (including a shy toucan, alpacas and ducks). 

A little further up the mountains we enjoyed some great scenery (luckily we had a clear day) and interesting flowers. There are many trout farms around the park, so obviously after our park visit, we stopped at one for lunch. Pat had trout sautéd in garlic butter sauce. Bill chose lemon butter sauce.

A few walks and planning our reservations for Disney Parks, especially making dining reservations for our Feb / Mar trip, consumed much of our remaining time in Cuenca. Making Disney reservations is complicated by making them from outside the US. Disney should take note 'cuz a lot of international travelers visit the parks.

One day we had a nice Italian lunch, Mushroom Risotto and Carbonara at the nearby Restaurant Pizzería Mediterráneo. We also returned to El Jardin for some Veal Cordon Bleu and more Pecan Pie. We had takeout pizza from Pizzo Tr3s our last night in Cuenca.

Quito

 On our return to Quito the driver dropped Andrew and Michelle at the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World) parking lot for their connection to the airport. Yep that means we were verrry close to the equator (but not yet consciously on it).  Then the driver continued on to deliver us to our rental at Torres de Suites which neighbors and is actually an extension of the JW Marriot. We headed off to the local super market for some goodies for snacks and breakfast in the apartment.

Our city tour included the Old town with multiple impressive churches, a couple we'd already seen and the ‎⁨Basílica del Voto Nacional with impressive decor including many gargoyles⁩ based on the local wildlife including birds (blue footed boobies, frigate birds, pelicans, ...) tapirs, iguanas, turtles, tortoises, coatis, crocodiles, frogs, and wld cats (jaguars, cougars, ...). Continuing the nature theme, the Rose Window is decorated with orchids. The bronze entry doors show different scenes: the life of Jesus life, the Creation, the arrival of Spanish conquerors and the reception by indigenous people with a really cute alpaca (top right of collage).

After continuing to tour the city center, we had lunch at Vista Hermosa (or Beautiful View in English) has some truly great views / vistas over the city. During lunch Argentina defeated France in the World Cup. The city went wild!

Top L-R: La Compañia Church (interior is thoroughly decorated in gold), Doorway to La Compaña Church, Bottom L-R: art by a local artist, Basílica del Voto Nacional in the distance, Lion at base of the Ecuadorian Statue of Liberty, Guadalupe in the lower part of the Nave and her appearance to Don Diego in the upper part.

The tour at Mitad del Mundo starts with a story about native life, including some detail about making shrunken heads.This was followed with some interesting facts and/or pseudo-science about the Equator. For instance,

• For a sundial to work on the Equator it is aligned E to W and sits vertically. For half of the day the north side of the dial displays the shadow (and hence the time) and for half the day the south side displays the shadow. I'd need more time to test this. 
• They also demonstrate that the coriolis effect makes water rotate one way in the Northern Hemisphere (left or anti-clockwise) and the other way in the Southern Hemisphere (right or clockwise). This appears to depend on a trick in the way they set it up. 
• They also say that the Equator is the one place where it is possible to balance an egg on a nail head. I don't know if it can be done elsewhere but one member of our tour group succeeded, so it is possible. No one but her had the patience to try.
• Finally we were asked to walk a straight line putting one foot ahead of the other on the Equator. Oh and with our eyes closed and arms outstretched. It's difficult, impossible? Not sure. Maybe it would help if you were drunk?
  

Maybe these guys took lessons from P. T. Barnum before designing their pitch??? One thing that seems likely...we were at zero latitude according to out phones!

On a morning walk we visited the Quito Botanic Garden. Beautiful with lush and varied plant life from around Ecuador. Without seasons the floral plants bloom nearly continuously. 

Top L-R: Azelea, Bonsai & Pitcher plant, Cactus, Australian bromeliad. Bottom L-R: Tropic Torch bromeliad, orchids

Just across the street was the Mall el Jardin. We had lunch at Bocatto Da Fiorentino (Caesar Salad & Chicken Alfredo Pizza), found a great pastry shop for breakfast foods and evening munchies and then stopped at a super market for some essentials like paté, fruit, and wine.

Next day we went out for Indian lunch at Sher e Punjab and a visit to the Mindalae - Ethnohistoric & Crafts Museum of Ecuador. The museum features traditional arts and crafts of indigenous groups from the Amazon basin, as well as the Andean and coastal communities. On display are native costumes, masks, jewelry and musical instruments, as well as, handwoven basketry and textiles, weapons, hunting tools...

On our way to the Otavalo Market, home to the largest market in all of South America,

we stopped for another encounter with the equator visiting the Solar Museum at Quitsato (Middle of the World in Tsafiqui language of the people from the Ecuadorian coast). This museum focuses on the real science focusing on the geographical, historical, and astronomical background of the Equatorial Andes. It felt more real than the place we visited earlier. Here there is:

• A large sundial 52 meters in diameter, made with a large stone mosaic that indicates the different lines of the solstices and equinoxes, as well as the hours of the day, indicated by the shadow of a 30 foot high pole located in the center.
• A topocentric simulator to demonstrate how the Solstices and Equinoxes work at any latitude in the world. Honestly I don't recall the details but it was fun to play with. Top left below.
• A museum focusing on the 1735 French Geodesic Mission to the Equator to determine the true shape of the Earth by measuring the vast distances between mountaintops in Ecuador.
• An agave garden - The first and only garden specializing in Agaves in South America.

Coincidentally we were there on the winter solstice. We had a unusually great view (typically cloud covered) of Cayambe Volcano, the only place on the Equator that has glaciers.  

We continued on to the Otavalo Market. Honestly it was not impressively large, but then we were not there on Market Day (Saturday). Later we had a fine lunch at Hacienda Pinsaqui as we enjoyed the views of the ponds, palms, and walks of the 200 year-old grounds.

On our final day in Quito we visited the Casa Museo Guayasamin, a museum that features the works and life of Oswaldo Guayasmin. Guayasamin was a renowned Ecuadorian artist very intent on addressing the inequities of the world. His work was influenced by Mexican muralists (José Clemente Orozco, Rufino Tamayo), and the famous Spaniard Pablo Picasso. When Guayasamin realized all of his works were outside of Ecuador, he decided to focus his final years on leaving a legacy in Ecuador. That legacy includes his home, all his possessions and a museum he designed. 

We toured his home and gallery, the grounds and the museum.  We enjoyed his works as well as the artworks he collected. The house and gallery are basically as he left them and includes his final (unfinished) work, a black & white piece.  

Later we were off to Cuenca, roughly a 1 hour flight to the south.

Mashpi Cloud Forest

 Next morning we headed back to Quito for overnight at Illa, where we stayed on our previous two nights, so we were looking forward to another dinner. We arrived in time for dinner and after a short night's rest we were ready for our trip to Mashpi Cloud Forest.

We taxi'ed to one of the pickup points, Casa Gangotena Boutique Hotel, a beautiful mansion from a bygone era. The lobby and downstairs public rooms were decorated with gorgeous rose arrangements (and a lovely Christmas tree.) 

The 3 plus hour drive ends with a long (2km/1.2m) stretch on narrow, rough gravel. 

We were greeted, oriented, and dined. Our waiter for the full stay was Darwin, a charming young man who truly aimed to please, trying to anticipate our every need. They serve three full meals per day and it is hard to resist. Needless to say, after our Mashpi stay, we both felt the need to diet, despite all the hiking based activities.

Our room had two walls of glass looking into the canopy. Delightful.

After lunch we were off for our first trek. First up: getting fitted for our gear (boots and poncho). Being a cloud forest we pretty much needed these to enjoy (tolerate?) hiking in the rain through muddy trails and stream beds. 

Our first outing in the forest was the Strangler Fig Walk with Andrew and Michelle (from Cambridge England) our touring partners during our stay at Mashpi. It was an easy test walk. Along the way we spotted an Alamy Dwarf Iguana.

While at Mashpi, we encountered many couples and families with similar itineraries, Mashpi to Galapagos and vice versa. One a 3 generation family who squeezed all the activities into a 2-night stay and another family with parents and daughters all in science oriented fields.

The next morning, we took the Magnolia Falls Walk. A large portion of the walk was in (yep, in) the stream. So glad we had those boots. Along the trail we got a glimpse of a Silky Anteater and a Giant African Snail (nope, not a native but impressive anyway). We climbed up a tower to ride the Dragon Fly gondola for a view over the canopy. The highlight of the ride was viewing a sloth (very challenging to spot due to it's natural camouflage; yep he is hiding in that photo below that seems to be just green leaves). We also got caught in some rain. We really appreciated our ponchos.

 After lunch we walked to the Life Center where we encountered Tayras (weasels), Agoutis (large rodents), a Ring-Tailed Coati (raccoon like animals), birds (including a tocanet of the toucan family), butterflies / moths and orchids. 

The highlight of the Mashpi experience was our Breakfast with the Hummingbirds. But first we stopped to see tanagers, warblers, tree climbers and other birds. It turns out that the hummies visited us there, landing on our hands as we tried to take photos. 

We moved on to the "hummingbird garden", our and their breakfast area. Here there were hummingbird feeders crowded with numerous types of hummies dining on the elixir in the feeders. Nothing special to us, but surely appealing to them.

Later we took the Sky Bike for a ride over the forest. 

After lunch we toured the Science Lab where we learned about the types of wild cats (5), snakes, insects (including translucent butterflies and Dynastes Hercules Beetles, a type of
rhinoceros beetle.) and other species that inhabit the forest. 

On our final night we did a night walk where we encountered frogs, a scorpion that glows when illuminated, spiders, a centipede and crickets.

Our final trek was a short (but steep) one to Taronga Falls on the morning of our departure. 

Glamping. in Galapagos

Up early and off to the airport for the flight to Baltra in the Galapagos. We were greeted at the airport by a snowman and then welcomed at the VIP lounge where we met a honeymoon couple who were coming from the Mashpi Cloud Forest (our next destination) and had enthusiastic reports.

On our way to the camp, we first stopped to see "twin" sinkholes made from collapsed lava tubes. In the parking lot we were greeted by a mock "little vermilion flycatcher". Students were there to raise awareness of the plight of these small birds, the population of which is declining at a rapid rate, due to the change in land use on the inhabited islands. 

We next stopped at the El Chato Ranch to visit with the Giant Land Tortoises (not turtles). We learned that a combination of tortoise's size and the markings on it's shell indicate the age. The more distinct the markings, the younger the tortoise. The bigger ones, around 1.5 meters, could be around 100 years old. And they cool themselves off by wallowing in the mud.

We also explored a lava tube and then enjoyed a simple, tasty lunch in the Ranch dining room. Notice the "crackers" in the squash soup. Yep, popcorn is popular in soups in Ecuador.

We then continued on the the Camp. Once we had settled in we went to the Viewpoint for drinks and to watch the sunset. Dinner was basically a wine & food pairing, as were all the following dinners. Each meal was documented on a chalk board and there were suggested wines pairings. Of course we sampled all of the pairings and with one exception they were great.

Other notices were also posted daily on "chalkboards" including the day's adventure and a bedtime note.

On our first day of explorations, we were off to Tortuga Bay where we walked along a paved walk out to the bay. Our guide recalled trekking to the bay backin the days before the paved walk. What now takes 45 minutes or so, used to take 3 hours. Along the walkway are verrrrry tall and old Nopal like cactus. And lots of marine iguanas lounge on the beach. During our kayak paddle we saw: white & black tipped sharks, rays, sea turtles, blue footed boobies, a marine iguana swimming in the bay, a sea lion, and a baby hammer head shark. 

Us with blue footed boobies; marine iguana swimming; brown pelican; marine iguanas on the beach; us in front of the local version of a prickly pear (nopal) cactus; blue footed booby.

Then we were off to lunch at Al Mar. Lobster for Pat and fish for Bill. That evening we had a little pre-dinner music...our bartender/sommelier strummed a few tunes on a special stringed instrument. We had the usual fine dinner with a special wine pairing with wine of two vintages from the same vineyard. The strange part was that the older wine was expected to be less tannic than it turned out despite treatment that should have enhanced the tannins. Yet the younger wine was just naturally more tannic. Sorry, maybe a bit technical but for us it was interesting.

Next morning we were up early for our first cruise, a trip to North Seymour Island. After a 45 minute ride we toured the island and got views of sea lions, frigate birds (the male is noted for it's red pouch), boobies, and both land and marine iguanas.

Swallow tailed gulls (and their egg); frigate birds (in flight and nesting); land iguana; marine iguana. 

After lunch we went snorkeling. Bill's new full-face mask worked very well. Pat and her guide got a few photos of the marine life. Mind you, that is no easy feat.

Female frigate bird hitching a ride on our boat; Sally light-foot crabs

Our second boat trip was to Bartolomé Island, a 2 plus hour cruise. From the base of the island we climbed roughly 400 steps for an amazing view. Along the way we passed some cacti and a primitive plant that is the first growth after an eruption. 

On the way to our snorkeling stop we saw a small penguin (Humboldt, typically about 27 in tall) basking on the rocks.

On our way to breakfast the next day, we saw a young tortoise just off our deck. When we returned it was  sparring with another tortoise. The young one appeared to be trespassing on an elder's territory.

On our final day we went to Trapiche Farm which produces coffee, chocolate, sugar, and Moonshine. 

Pressing the sugar cane; heating up the still; testing the alcohol; roasting the coffee beans.

From there we visited Garrapatero Beach. Some nice views and rivulets in the sand.

We were impressed with the skyline of giant cacti.

Another seafood lunch, this time at Isla Restaurante and then a tour of the Darwin Center where they raise tortoises from the different islands, trying to preserve variants of each species.  Here we were introduced to tortoises with longer necks than we had previously seen. The ones with short neck forage on the ground. The one with long necks dine on the shrubbery. 

Lonesome George (seen below with Pat), lived from 1910 to 2012, he was the last of the Pinta Island strain. 

We later checked out the shops in town. Nice, but not exceptional.