Tuesday we headed back to the coast through Camden for some shopping along the Main Street (Polly bought a hat, Bill bought a shirt). On previous visits we have driven up Mount Battie for the views and enjoyed sailing around the harbors and islands.
Then on to Rockland for lunch at Cafe Miranda. Lobster Mac-n-Cheese for Polly & Pat, and for Bill a Crabstini (crab and tomato, in a tarragon cream sauce on a foccacia crostini). After lunch, more shopping including a visit to The Wine Seller which has a very fine collection of wines.
With more time we would have visited the Farnsworth Art Museum with its collection of works from many of America's greatest artists. The museum is especially known for its collection of works by the Wyeths (Andrew, N.C., & Jamie). On other visits we have enjoyed walking out along the breakwater to the lighthouse and touring the Owlshead Transportation Museum.
The hardest thing about passing through this area so quickly is that in recent years many very fine restaurants have developed in the Camden / Rockport / Rockland area. Most of them are only open for dinner which is frustrating for daytrippers. Thankfully Cafe Miranda's is available for midday dining!
We then continued on to Boothbay Harbor and the Harborage Inn. The Inn is located at the top of the Harbor and offers fine views and equally fine breakfasts.
First thing Wednesday morning we, Pat & Bill, took a walk around the harbor and the town to assess locations and access to the best dining, shopping and viewpoints. These towns are all easily walkable but Polly's days of long walks are behind us. Hence a little planning makes life more fun.
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| Camden Harbor (at low tide). The shops are just off to the left of this photo. |
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| Lobster Mac-n-Cheese |
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| Crabstini |
The hardest thing about passing through this area so quickly is that in recent years many very fine restaurants have developed in the Camden / Rockport / Rockland area. Most of them are only open for dinner which is frustrating for daytrippers. Thankfully Cafe Miranda's is available for midday dining!
First thing Wednesday morning we, Pat & Bill, took a walk around the harbor and the town to assess locations and access to the best dining, shopping and viewpoints. These towns are all easily walkable but Polly's days of long walks are behind us. Hence a little planning makes life more fun.
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| The outer harbor at Boothbay Harbor |
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| Decor above the walking bridge that crosses the harbor |
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| The Inner Harbor |
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| Picket Fence at the Children's Garden |
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| Lady's Slipper |
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| Risottos at Boathouse Bistro |
Thursday we headed to Damariscotta and down a neighboring peninsula to serene Christmas Cove enjoying the combination of pastoral and coastal beauty along the way.
We returned for a little shopping in Damariscotta and then had lunch at the River Grill. Great breads, potato latkes and a bottle of Pinot Noir accompanied three tasty small plates (Fried Pemaquid Oysters with spicy Cajun dipping sauce for Pat; Haddock Tacos for Bill; and Smoked Pork nested in a corn tortilla with pickled red onions and cilantro crema for Polly).
On the return to Boothbay Harbor, we stopped at the Edgecomb Potters, a vast collection of artisanal work (pottery, jewelry, & sculpture) from around the area. Before dinner we took a drive to Newagen & Southport (the less touristy side of Boothbay Harbor.
We had reservations at Ports of Italy for dinner. There are Italian restaurants everywhere but this one has an authentic feel and thoroughly Italian menu. Unfortunately our food photographer apparently took most of the the night off rousing herself only for a dessert photo.
Following the bruschetta we shared asparagi parmigiana. Then Rigatoni alla Norma (homemade pasta with sautéed eggplant) for the girls and Agnolotti di Vitello (handmade ravioli with veal, mortadella and pork stuffing) in a sauce of mixed wild mushrooms for Bill. A Torta al Cioccolato (artisan flourless chocolate cake with whipped cream and raspberry sauce) rounded out the meal.
We returned for a little shopping in Damariscotta and then had lunch at the River Grill. Great breads, potato latkes and a bottle of Pinot Noir accompanied three tasty small plates (Fried Pemaquid Oysters with spicy Cajun dipping sauce for Pat; Haddock Tacos for Bill; and Smoked Pork nested in a corn tortilla with pickled red onions and cilantro crema for Polly).
On the return to Boothbay Harbor, we stopped at the Edgecomb Potters, a vast collection of artisanal work (pottery, jewelry, & sculpture) from around the area. Before dinner we took a drive to Newagen & Southport (the less touristy side of Boothbay Harbor.
We had reservations at Ports of Italy for dinner. There are Italian restaurants everywhere but this one has an authentic feel and thoroughly Italian menu. Unfortunately our food photographer apparently took most of the the night off rousing herself only for a dessert photo.
Following the bruschetta we shared asparagi parmigiana. Then Rigatoni alla Norma (homemade pasta with sautéed eggplant) for the girls and Agnolotti di Vitello (handmade ravioli with veal, mortadella and pork stuffing) in a sauce of mixed wild mushrooms for Bill. A Torta al Cioccolato (artisan flourless chocolate cake with whipped cream and raspberry sauce) rounded out the meal.
Friday we headed to Wiscasset, the self proclaimed prettiest village in Maine. Enroute we made a short stop to see the manually operated drawbridge to Barter’s Island. Just before the bridge we spotted a "shack" with an eyecatching display of lobster gear.
While we were there the owner exited the shack and we had a great discussion with him. Among other things he regaled us with the story of an American lady he met in Goa India. When she discovered he was from Maine, she launched into a story about the time she and friends were in New Hampshire and, realizing they were close to Maine, they decided to make a daytrip to Boothbay Harbor to visit a shop that specialized in thimbles. It was a longer drive than expected so the shop was closed but a young man allowed them entry through the back and then went on his way. It turns out the young man was, you guessed it, our new friend. ...We know, this is just such a typical story for travelers, but we still find them enchanting.
There was a nice park with an enticing walk nearby the bridge but we decided to continue on to Fort Edgecomb, a two-story octagonal wooden blockhouse that offers panoramic views of the area. The views enabled soldiers to protect the area from both water and land attacks. It was primarily used in the War of 1812.
Wiscasset is not only a lovely town, it is home to Reds' Eats and it's "#1 Lobster Roll". Reds' comes with a long line and outdoor tables. We decided it would be more comfortable and convenient to eat at Sarah’s across the street. We followed lunch with some afternoon shopping before returning to Boothbay Harbor for another dinner at Boathouse Bistro.
While we were there the owner exited the shack and we had a great discussion with him. Among other things he regaled us with the story of an American lady he met in Goa India. When she discovered he was from Maine, she launched into a story about the time she and friends were in New Hampshire and, realizing they were close to Maine, they decided to make a daytrip to Boothbay Harbor to visit a shop that specialized in thimbles. It was a longer drive than expected so the shop was closed but a young man allowed them entry through the back and then went on his way. It turns out the young man was, you guessed it, our new friend. ...We know, this is just such a typical story for travelers, but we still find them enchanting.
There was a nice park with an enticing walk nearby the bridge but we decided to continue on to Fort Edgecomb, a two-story octagonal wooden blockhouse that offers panoramic views of the area. The views enabled soldiers to protect the area from both water and land attacks. It was primarily used in the War of 1812.
Wiscasset is not only a lovely town, it is home to Reds' Eats and it's "#1 Lobster Roll". Reds' comes with a long line and outdoor tables. We decided it would be more comfortable and convenient to eat at Sarah’s across the street. We followed lunch with some afternoon shopping before returning to Boothbay Harbor for another dinner at Boathouse Bistro.
Saturday we moved on to Freeport for shopping at LL Bean and the many outlet stores that have sprung up nearby. Realizing that none of us had ever been to Reid State Park, we took a slight detour and discovered it features sandy beaches and sand dunes—both rare in the state of Maine—plus rocky tidepools, salt marshes, and a tidal lagoon.
Next up was Brunswick where we visited the Bowdoin College Museum of Art with its fine collection of classics and contemporary art. We enjoyed the special exhibit of "Winslow Homer and the Camera" which explores the Homer’s use of the camera and his art. Oddly enough, Bill noticed an article about the exhibit in the July 5 Wall Street Journal soon after we returned home.
We arrived in Freeport in time for a late lunch at one of our favorite spots there, the Azure Cafe. Although it was comfortable outside we wisely chose an inside table and felt smug when others had to move inside to avoid the downpour that soon developed. Nice timing on our part. Then on to our rooms at the White Cedar Inn.
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| Views at Reid State Park |
Next up was Brunswick where we visited the Bowdoin College Museum of Art with its fine collection of classics and contemporary art. We enjoyed the special exhibit of "Winslow Homer and the Camera" which explores the Homer’s use of the camera and his art. Oddly enough, Bill noticed an article about the exhibit in the July 5 Wall Street Journal soon after we returned home.
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| Night Hauling by Andrew Wyeth 1944 (age 27)...look closely and you can see the lobster trap being pulled out of the water |
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| Magnetic Space by Richard Pousette-Dart - Try to find a pattern in this!!! |
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| Sun Dance Ceremony by a Lakota Nation artist |
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| Bill's Lasagna |
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| Polly & Pat shared an Eggplant Parmesan |
Sunday we were off to Shapleigh (very close to the NH border) to visit Bill's cousins Maxine & Irene, Maxine's husband John plus children & grandchildren. We stopped at When Pigs Fly Bakery and enjoyed selecting from the vast offering with roughly a dozen Classic Breads such as Whole Wheat or Cinnamon Raisin and another dozen of inspired breads featuring combinations such as:
- Baby Spinach, Onion & Garlic Ciabatta
- Red Pepper Hummus with Sesame Seeds & Garlic
- Blueberry & Raspberry w/Lemonade
- Orange,Toasted Walnut and Cranberry
After an enjoyable struggle we made our selections and were on our way to a great family get together.
Despite our plans to spend several nights in Portland, we decided to tour Portland from Freeport and then tour further south along the coast while staying in Portland.
We started with a visit to a favorite of ours, the very fine Portland Museum of Art. The museum was founded in 1882. A new addition designed by I.M. Pei opened in 1982. The remarkable collection represents American, European, and contemporary art with artists such as Claude Monet, Renoir, Whistler, and Andy Warhol as well as a large collection of works by Winslow Homer who for many years lived nearby in Prouts Neck.
We started with a visit to a favorite of ours, the very fine Portland Museum of Art. The museum was founded in 1882. A new addition designed by I.M. Pei opened in 1982. The remarkable collection represents American, European, and contemporary art with artists such as Claude Monet, Renoir, Whistler, and Andy Warhol as well as a large collection of works by Winslow Homer who for many years lived nearby in Prouts Neck.
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| Blue Savanah (Ipcar) |
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| Indian Jungle (Langlais) |
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| Chihuly |
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| Dark Harbor Fisherman (Wyeth) |
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| View of Captain John Brown Coyle's House (Harrison Bird Brown) |
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| Confidences (Renoir) |
For lunch, we headed to the Old Port for another dose of seafood, this time at Gilbert's Chowder House. The Old Port has many fine shops and restaurants. We all loved the vast selection at the Leroux Kitchen store.
We stopped at Trader Joe's and Whole Foods to shop for evening meals before returning to Freeport. Our B&B provided a microwave and cooking dishes so we planned to take the opportunity to "eat-in" for a couple nights. One night featured buttercup squash. Another night featured fresh corn. And on both nights the food photographer took time off.
We stopped at Trader Joe's and Whole Foods to shop for evening meals before returning to Freeport. Our B&B provided a microwave and cooking dishes so we planned to take the opportunity to "eat-in" for a couple nights. One night featured buttercup squash. Another night featured fresh corn. And on both nights the food photographer took time off.
Tuesday we visited Eartha, the "World's Largest Rotating Globe" in Yarmouth. Eartha (41' in diameter) is located in the lobby of the Garmin building (previously home of Delorame Maps). Back in the day (maybe 5 years ago?) when paper maps were valued, there was a fantastic map shop here. All that's left is Eartha & an office building. Next we drove down to the atmospheric Freeport Town Wharf. We returned to Freeport for lunch at another of our favorites spots, Linda Bean's Maine Kitchen.
After lunch we made our way to scenic Bailey's Island & Land's End. Access to the island is via a Cribstone Bridge from Orr’s Island. The 1,150-foot structure crosses a major tidal flow and is built of massive granite slabs in alternating lengthwise and crosswise layers with open “cribbing” (like a lattice work) between the stones. No mortar or cement is used. The granite slabs are sufficiently heavy to withstand wind and waves, while the open cribbing allows the tide to ebb and flow freely. The bridge is apparently the only granite cribstone bridge in the world.
We continued out to "Land's End" for the views. On our way back to Freeport, we rediscovered a small pond with bright water lilies.
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| Polly & Bill checking out Eartha |
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| Working at the Freeport wharf |
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| Pat's lobster at Linda Bean's |
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| Cribstone Bridge between Orr's & Bailey Islands |
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| Layered rock near the Cribstone bridge |
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| Pier at Bailey's Island |
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| Memorial to All Maine Fisherman at Lands End |
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| Water Lily Pond Orr's Island |
Wednesday we moved to Portland, our last stop, and more shopping. We had lunch at Taj Indian restaurant. Mom enjoyed the food but thought it was a little spicy.
Later we wandered over to Cape Elizabeth for a look at Portland Headlight.
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| Polly sampling Indian food at Taj |
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| Portland Headlight |
Thursday was a little rainy so we continued shopping in Portland and had lunch at ISA Bistro. Pat & Polly shared a very fine "Blackened Haddock Caesar". Bill had a panini with shaved local lamb. The wine (Garzon Tannat, a red from Uruguay) was a nice complement to both dishes.
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| Bill's Shaved Lamb Panini |
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| Polly & Pat split a Blackend Haddock Caesar |
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| South of Biddeford |
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| Inlet near Wells |
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| Polly at Nubble Light |
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| View up the coast from Nubble Light |
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| Bill attacking the Fish & Chips |
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| Two of the five sliders shared by Polly & Pat |
Later at our local airport, we learned that the heavy rains that hit the area in June had taken out a bridge on the normal route between SMA and the airport. The alternate route took us over the dam on the major local reservoir, Presa Allende. And, as expected, they were releasing massive amounts of water. Pat caught a photo of the raging torrent as we passed by.
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| Overflow at the Presa Allende |
Aside from all the touring and dining, we found time to play progressive rummy nearly every evening. Fortunately we pretty well shared at winning keeping everyone's spirits high.
FYI. Our next trip will be to celebrate our 50th anniversary on August 24. Somehow we were overlooking the momentous occasion. Fortunately we woke up in time to book 3 days in Champagne and 10 days in Paris.
FYI. Our next trip will be to celebrate our 50th anniversary on August 24. Somehow we were overlooking the momentous occasion. Fortunately we woke up in time to book 3 days in Champagne and 10 days in Paris.
