In May, we gave Bill’s Mom Polly a trip to Maine for her 92nd birthday. We prefer to visit Maine in July because we find the weather to be generally nicer then but we chose to travel in June because we could get reservations at our targeted B&B’s then, plus Ruth Dudley, a friend from our time in Boston (actually Sudbury) would coincidentally be there then as well.
June may sound like summertime to most of you, but in Maine, it is hard to predict. It could be lovely. It could be cold rainy weather. And anything in between. In any event, we decided that the stars were aligned and we committed to a June visit. As luck would have it, it was a great decision. We had very little rain (some one night) and the weather was cool but comfortable. In the meantime, San Miguel was deluged by rain. In fact there was so much rain in San Miguel that a bridge on the typical route to the airport collapsed due to the flooding Laja River...but that's a story for later.
Back to the trip...it was a 3:30 AM wakeup call for our early morning departure to Portland. Wisely we had spent the night near the airport. All went well with the flights. The wheel chair service provided for Polly meant that we breezed through Bush International (Houston) and Regan National (DC) airports. We arrived at our hotel a little after 7 PM.
Soon we were off to our first meal, which was, surprise!, seafood (lobster bisque, mussels, and fish and chips with a side of roasted veggies.)
June may sound like summertime to most of you, but in Maine, it is hard to predict. It could be lovely. It could be cold rainy weather. And anything in between. In any event, we decided that the stars were aligned and we committed to a June visit. As luck would have it, it was a great decision. We had very little rain (some one night) and the weather was cool but comfortable. In the meantime, San Miguel was deluged by rain. In fact there was so much rain in San Miguel that a bridge on the typical route to the airport collapsed due to the flooding Laja River...but that's a story for later.
Back to the trip...it was a 3:30 AM wakeup call for our early morning departure to Portland. Wisely we had spent the night near the airport. All went well with the flights. The wheel chair service provided for Polly meant that we breezed through Bush International (Houston) and Regan National (DC) airports. We arrived at our hotel a little after 7 PM.
Soon we were off to our first meal, which was, surprise!, seafood (lobster bisque, mussels, and fish and chips with a side of roasted veggies.)
Our first significant overnight stop would be in Bar Harbor on Mt Desert Island (home of Acadia National Park). This is roughly a 3+ hour drive if you take the highway. Traveling along the coast through a number of delightful towns adds an hour of driving time and lots of opportunities to explore, shop and eat along the way. We stopped for shopping at LL Bean in Freeport and for pizza in Waldoboro. Upon arrival at the Balance Rock Inn, we connected with the Dudley / Stanfield clan (Ruth and her son-in-law Burns with his age 20-something "children" Liz and Nathan) for dinner at Blaze Restaurant, where most foods, including the lobster, are grilled over blazes of fire.
Grilled lobster, lobster and scallop risotto, halibut with pineapple salsa, and fish tacos were the order of the day. Yep, Burns wanted the tacos. Think he is hinting that he might like to visit Mexico??? We hope so.
Liz and Nathan headed back to Boston the next morning while Ruth & Burns joined us for a tour of Schoodic Point, a part of Acadia National Park that is across Frenchman’s Bay from Bar Harbor. It’s a long enough drive that few visitors to the Park make it, so we mostly had the place to ourselves. We got off to a slow start so we really didn't do the place justice. In fact we had to pass up Winter Harbor with with it's shops and galleries and the community of Grindstone Neck with it's smoked seafood and exquisite views.
Along our return drive, we found a suitably atmospheric restaurant situated on a cove where Ruth could have the fried clams she had been craving. Polly must have been planning ahead because she dressed perfectly to coordinate with the bouquet on our table.
Saturday, we started the day with an early walk along the "Shore Path" accessed from the Pier in Bar Harbor (and from the grounds of our B&B). The path stretches about 3/4 mile along the shore passing a few of the still surviving "cottages". Note: In the late 1800's Mt Desert Island competed with Newport RI as "THE" place for the "rich & famous" to build elaborate "cottages" designed for entertaining and impressing their peers. Unfortunately most of the ones in Maine were destroyed over the years. The most recent "destroyer" was the "Fire of 1947" which also devastated forests around the island. The cool thing about that fire is that it opened up great vistas that we all enjoyed up through the 90's. But now the forests are growing and those vistas are no more.
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| The Balance Rock Inn, a former Summer Cottage |
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| Balance Rock |
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| The shore path |
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| One of the few cottages that escaped the 1947 Fire |
- "Sand Beach," a beautiful cove with fine white sand and "refreshing water" that never gets over 55 degrees. There's a fine view of the beach from the loop road. Historic note: When Pat worked at Acadia she swam out to the bouys marking the end of the beach. Upon her return to the beach, one of her friends, a lifeguard, gave her the merry old devil for doing that. He didn't want to be the one dealing with the cold water swimming out to rescue her.
- Thunder Hole is noted for the thundering made by rocks in a small cavern at the base of the cliff. When the right size wave hits, you know why it is called Thunder Hole. Pat's Mom, the ocean lover that she was, spent innumerable hours here. She noted that the best thundering usually occurs when the mid-tide is "coming in." However the water was so calm while we were there, most visitors were totally mystified by the name.
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| A very calm Thunder Hole |
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| View of Porcupine Islands from Thunder Hole |
We next headed to the Asticou Azalea Gardens to meet our friends Terry (Pat’s junior year college roommate) and Jim. They live in the Villages in FL but frequently summer in Bar Harbor where they hike the network of trails and carriage roads that span the park. During the peak summer months LL Bean sponsors a bus service that stops at popular trail heads. What a great feature! So much better than having to limit hikes to circular routes or having to drop off cars at both ends of the trail. The Azaleas were in season and the gardens were striking.
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| A carriage road bridge. John D Rockefeller Jr built 45 miles of of gravel roads within the park. These are limited to hiking, biking and horse carriages. Bridges are made of the local pink granite. |
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| A lovely light yellow peony - not an azalea ;-) |
We continued on to Northeast Harbor for some shopping and lunch. Later Jim and Polly found a relaxing spot overlooking the harbor. After we parted with Jim & Terry we drove up the winding route to the top of Mount Cadillac for views over the Frenchman's Bay and the Porcupine Islands.
Sunday we travelled to Southwest Harbor and Seawall (a natural stone wall of cobblestone size rocks). Along the way we had beautiful views of Somes Sound (Maine's own fjord) and stopped in the ever so cute town of Somesville with it's white walking bridge and reflecting pool.
After a short photo stop, we continued on to the Charlotte Rhoades Park and Butterfly Garden. Unfortunately we were too early in the season for its usual vivid display of color. Next time.
We enjoyed lunch at the Upper Deck Restaurant in Southwest Harbor where Pat was provided with very much unneeded directions re how to eat lobster. Note: When Pat was in grade school, her Mom taught her how to eat every edible bit of lobster. And she practices the art at every opportunity.
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Somesville with walking bridge and reflecting pool on one side of the road and driving bridge decorated with geraniums across the street. |
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| The lilacs were in bloom and as fragrant as the color is vivid. |
We drove on beyond Southwest Harbor to the natural Seawall, an expanse of cobblestone size rocks swept up by the sea. It's lovely to visit the cliffside, landmark Bass Harbor Lighthouse but chose to avoid the lengthy walk.
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| Seawall |
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| View of Southwest Harbor from Upper Deck Restaurant |
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Monday we took a last walk along Frenchman's Bay. Being June there was a cruise ship in port (ships are not welcome in high season). And being Bar Harbor in summer, one of the 4-Masted Schooners that offer short sailing excursions just happened to be passing by.
Then we headed north to Greenville and Moosehead Lake, the state's largest lake (40 miles long and nearly 75,000 acres...more or less shaped like a Moose head). We were on the way to spend a few days with Carol Whitney (a high school classmate) at the Whitney camp on Harford's Point. Enroute we stopped in Dover-Foxcroft for ice cream at Butterfields, a childhood favorite and still very worthy. See photo below for range of ice cream offerings!!! The chocolate peanut butter was a hit with both Pat & Polly, Bill enjoyed the grapenut.
We stopped at the Indian Trading Post for a quick look around and to shop for groceries before continuing on to the camp.
Tuesday was Primary Election Day and Carol needed to take a trip home to vote. We decided to drive further up the west side of the lake to Rockwood. Pat used to visit Rockwood as a child when she accompanied her Dad on his sales trips. (He had a “produce route” that took in as many summer camps and lodges as possible. He would pack the suburban with fresh fruits and veggies, most of which were grown by Pat’s Mom, and act as a traveling farm stand.)
Needless to say we were stunned while stopped at one of the lodges. Pat’s niece’s son, Cameron (a beer & wine distributor who didn’t even know we were in Maine), had spotted Bill driving by. That he could recognize Bill with such a brief opportunity amazes us. Anyway, we were glad that he chased us and were delighted to meet up with him.
Tuesday was Primary Election Day and Carol needed to take a trip home to vote. We decided to drive further up the west side of the lake to Rockwood. Pat used to visit Rockwood as a child when she accompanied her Dad on his sales trips. (He had a “produce route” that took in as many summer camps and lodges as possible. He would pack the suburban with fresh fruits and veggies, most of which were grown by Pat’s Mom, and act as a traveling farm stand.)
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Along the way we stopped to check out Mt Kineo and family of geese |
Needless to say we were stunned while stopped at one of the lodges. Pat’s niece’s son, Cameron (a beer & wine distributor who didn’t even know we were in Maine), had spotted Bill driving by. That he could recognize Bill with such a brief opportunity amazes us. Anyway, we were glad that he chased us and were delighted to meet up with him.
Our final day with Carol included more conversation, shopping around Greenville, playing cards (Progressive Rummy) and listening to the loons.
After three gorgeous days (including an overnight storm) on the lake we took Polly to her niece Mary's house in Stetson and we stayed with our niece Mary and her husband Peter in Garland. But first we toured Dexter, reminiscing of school days there. Then we all had fried scallops for lunch at the Lakeside on Wassookeag Lake. (Note: Garland & Stetson could compete for some element of small-size, so don't expect them on the normal tourist route.)
Friday we walked over to the dairy farm from run by brother Jim's family (wife Sandra, son Kevin, daughters Mary & Alyce and Mary's hubby Peter). Currently they milk around 550 head of cattle with twice per day milking starting at around 2 AM and again at 2 PM. Earlier in the day we learned that one of Polly's hearing aids had broken. So we next we went to Bangor hoping to get it repaired. NO luck but we did find some wine and food for dinner.
Saturday we went to Dover Foxcroft with our sister-in-law Elaine. And, of all things, we got Polly's hearing aid fixed by an audiologist who just happens to have a house in San Miguel!
We shopped at Bob’s Home & Garden. The store is located in the old Gristmill & Feedstore and the name says it all, you can find anything here for the home or garden. Someone posted to their facebook page, "Has everything I need. From hand made soaps, pet and feed supplies, gardening supplies to beer making kits and kitchenware." Then we drove on to Stutzman's Farmstand & Bakery for lunch. Nice pizza buffet with soups, salads, and dessert.
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| On our walk to the farm we found a gnome at home on a brackett mushroom |
We shopped at Bob’s Home & Garden. The store is located in the old Gristmill & Feedstore and the name says it all, you can find anything here for the home or garden. Someone posted to their facebook page, "Has everything I need. From hand made soaps, pet and feed supplies, gardening supplies to beer making kits and kitchenware." Then we drove on to Stutzman's Farmstand & Bakery for lunch. Nice pizza buffet with soups, salads, and dessert.
Sunday we are off to Bangor again. First to see Pat’s niece Lisa and her daughter Sadie (who just graduated from High School), and then to a University graduation party for Angelyn at her parents' (Bill & Alyce / Cameron’s parents) house in Veazie. What a fun group! Good thing because we plan to party with them at Vail this September at Riley's wedding. We were quite amused to meet Angelyn's guy friend who seems like a California-boy. They modeled in front of his camper van (impressively remodeled with his carpentry) and with his self-made surf board.
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| Anglyn with creative friend...a surfer who made his own board |
Monday we picked up Polly and went to visit with her nephew Charlie and family in Corinna. Charlie and Barbara run Thunder Road Farm Stand (& Corn Maze).
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| Polly & nephew Charlie |
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| Polly & niece Mary |
Later Frank took us on a 4 wheeler tour over the roads and through the woods to see the planted fields of the Thomas Vegetable Farm (run by Frank and his son Paul.)
Next Up: Maine June 2018 (Mid coast, Portland)
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