Off to Ecuador

The star attraction of our 2022 Holiday trip was Glamping on Santa Cruz Island at the Galapagos Safari Camp. This gave us a fine way to enjoy the renowned fauna and flora without overnight shipboard stays. We followed this up with a stay at the Lodge in the Mashpi Cloud Forest. Both places offer a menu of activities so we were usually up at 6 and heading back to bed (exhausted) by 9.  We booked things a bit late which resulted in having only one travel day between the two lodges. This added to the exhaustion, but it worked out.

We flew out of Terminal 2 of the Mexico City airport for a change and had our first stay at the NH Hotel located above the terminal, quite a pleasant experience. We had an after dinner glass of wine at the bar at the NH and were quite pleased with the offerings. Next trip we will try their restaurant, which  appears to be the best restaurant in Terminal 2. Our drive to the airport entailed little waiting even at the toll booths.

We had a mid-morning flight to  Panama City and then on to Quito. Pat caught a shot of ships exiting or waiting to enter the canal on our departure from Panama City airport.

All went very well with our Copa Airlines premium class flights and we arrived quite rested. After a short wait for our checked bag we were transferred to the Illa Experience Hotel in Old Town Quito. They served a welcome cocktail with wine and fruit, (we were not on our game and therefore no photos).

Dinner was a real treat with some great food and a chat with the owner and the chef who we learned trained under the renowned Basque chef, Juan Mari Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain.

We enjoyed our first Ecuadorean wine, a quite fine cabernet sauvignon from the Dos Hemisferios winery. It is the most noted winery in Ecuador. The appetizer (banana crepe served in a soup spoon) was delightful. For mains Pat had Lomo Silvestre (beef loin and anticucho veal heart, with chimichurri and mashed white carrots). The strips of heart, seasoned with chili pepper and cooked on a brochette were served on a tiny clothes line (perhaps we should say "heartline"). Bill had Cerdo con Naranja (Pork with orange) served with pancetta, Andean potatoes and chicha (a local fermented corn brew). The dessert (Viaje del cacao / Cocoa journey) consisted of chocolate mousse rock, cocoa biscuit with banana vinegar, with sweet corn cream and a netting of caramelized corn. Intriguing and tasty. We closed out the meal with  a sip of Pamplonica Pacharán Navarro, a liqueur from Pamplona Spain.

After a good nights sleep and a hearty breakfast we headed for the Plaza Grande. After wandering around the Square and visiting two churches and a convent (La Compañía de Jesús church, San Francisco Bascilica and Convent).

The Compañía church is considered one of the finest examples of Spanish Baroque (think extremely ornate) architecture in South America. The outside is nice and the gold entry doors are especially nice, giving a hint of what is to come. Inside La Compañía de Jesús church is primarily decorated with carved cedar wood covered with 23-carat gold leaf on a red background.

Unfortunately pictures are no longer allowed so we had to borrow a couple from Atlas Obscura and Expedia. A feature of baroque is balanced design. Consequently since there is a spiral staircase at the left of the entry door, there is a painted replica to the right of the door.

The 16th C San Francisco Monastery complex includes the main basilica, a convent, thirteen cloisters, three temples, a massive courtyard, more than 3500 works of art and a brewery. The basilica is decorated with lots of gold leaf in the main sanctuary but, having been built earlier than the Compañía, it displays a more modest amount of gold leaf. The Jesuits came late to Quito and apparently felt compelled to show off. On a return trip (this time with our guide) we discovered the catacombs, now occupied by a store featuring regional arts and crafts. 

We headed back toward our hotel and planned a stop at the Muñoz Mariño Watercolor  Museum. Sadly the museum was closed (they seemed to be working on a new exhibit) but we had an enjoyable lunch at La Purísima of Ossobucco and Roasted Cauliflower with an Argentinian wine. We also got samples of several liquers. The dessert, Good Thursday Black Tart, was quite special. They are proud enough of it to provide the, somewhat complicated, recipe in the menu.

We spent the rest of the afternoon reworking our luggage so we could leave one bag behind for our trip to the Galapagos Safari Camp. We enjoyed another dinner at Illa. This time we shared Brujo encocado, a fish from around the Galapagos, on coconut sauce, rice and caramelized coconut) and paired it with Morande Enigma, their Estate Reserve Chardonnay. Very fine.

Note for Planning a trip to Greece

This was our second trip to Greece.  Santorini and Athens were both repeat visits, which tells you something right there. See our postings for November 2013 for our original visit.

Santorini

• It's beauty is so mesmerizing; it's history is mind boggling (Akrotiri stands out. Visit the site and the museum in Fira.); vineyards cover the countryside with numerous opportunities to taste fine wines; then there is the shopping (especially fun in Oia) and the many fine restaurants.
• Despite all that you may just want to lounge on your patio or in your hottub gazing at the sunset or just down over the blue and white houses, the lacy church towers, the boats, the sparkling water...
• Bottom Line: It requires a minimum of 3 days but a week is better.

Athens

• Everyone knows they need to spend a day or two here just to visit the Acropolis, the Agora and maybe a museum or two. 
• But it is a big city with real city character. We advise branching out and exploring the neighborhoods.
• If you want to squeeze in an island experience, visit Hydra as an overnight or just a one day trip from Athens. Hydra features: shops, restaurants, hiking, swimming, all within walking distance or water taxi of the ferry, no motorized vehicles allowed. 
• Bottom Line: If all you want to see is the renowned highlights, allow one to two days to see the biggies and to get a tiny taste of Athens. 3 days allows a better sampling. And a week is great if you can spare the time.

Delphi & Meteora

• Each of these can be done as a daytrip but each deserves at least an overnight. There are numerous options for arranging these short trips.
• Bottom Line: Combine these with an overnight in Delphi and one or two overnights in Meteora. If you only have two days to spare, target Meteora. Its geography and history are so unique...although it is a long drive from Athens.

Vikos Gorge / Epirus Territory

• This is an overlooked gem because it is a long way from Athens and has been difficult to access. Newly built highways have improved the access so it will likely become less overlooked. Also it is basically an outdoors place and the greenest (rainiest) area of Greece...so it may not be for everyone.
• An idea for including it on a trip from Athens is to drive up through Delphi and Meteora and from Vikos go on to Corfu (island to the west, access by ferry) or to Thessaloniki (city on the Agean Sea). Both have airports for your return trip. We haven't been to either, but would like to visit each of them.

Nafplio

• Nafplio offers 3 local fortresses (we recommend taking photos of Bourtzi and visiting Palamidi), easy access to impressive ancient sites (Epidaurus, Mycenae), fun shopping and excellent wine & food options. You might want to arrange a wine tour of the Nemea region. We took the lazy approach and went to wine bars.
• This is another easy trip from Athens. And enroute it is worth a stop to see the Corinth Canal.

More of the Peloponnese

If you like less touristy places, checkout more of the Peloponnese, but keep in mind that this is better for an extended stay with a car. 

• Pylos - beauty, food, Fortresses, Palace of Nestor, Messene. Stay for  3 days minimum. 
• Mani - peace & quiet, stone villages, scenery. Stay in Kardamyli, Aeropoli or Gythio.
• Monemvasia -  fun stop for 2 nights. 
• There is an Airport in Kalamata (with service to various European airports but NOT from Athens). Shuttle service can be arranged from Athens.

OTHER ISLANDS

Paros

• Paros is a small and less known version of Santorini. With easy daytrip ferry access to Mykonos, Naxos and AntiParos.  
• Offers beaches (many shallow and better for wading but swimmable further offshore), nice restaurants and shops, even a local winery with pretty fine wines.
• Consider a beach day on Antiparos
• Stay in Naoussa (our top choice) or Paros Town.

Crete

• Crete is a large island. We prefer visiting Heraklion (mid island) briefly (to see the ruins of Knossos) and staying for several days in Chania. 
• Crete has good ferry service from Heraklion to Santorini making the two islands a good combo to visit.

Rhodes

• We only had a day here due to travel difficulties. But that day was amazing! Staying 3-4 days would allow ample time to explore the island. 
• Rhodes combines well with visiting Turkey.
• Rhodes is covered in our October 2013 posting.

WHEN TO GO

As for timing, we are strong believers in Off Season Travel...and especially so for Greece. The heat and crowds hit in July & August. We saw the pickup in both in late June. On the other end, tourist services cut back by mid October and are seriously reduced by the end of October. As for the beginning of the season, May is good. Not sure about April.

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

• For drivers over 70, you may have difficulty renting a car. We used Avance Rental Car (they seem to allow drivers up to age 75) and Avis (which doesn't list an upper limit!)
• The Peloponnese and Vikos Gorge areas feature narrow roads with lots of elevation (ie lots of twists and turns, along with the likelihood of finding yourself, as a passenger,  looking down a steep drop-off.  Not recommended for the faint hearted,

RECOMMENDED TRAVEL SERVICE

Alternative Athens was an incredible resource. See: https://www.alternativeathens.com/

They have expertise on the mainland and many of the islands. We relied on them for all the details of our mainland trip. Our trip was thoroughly documented for us in their Trip Plans app. The App has a google map for the full trip, and day by day details including what we booked, what we might also want to book, things that are a MUST along the way, other interesting stops, and restaurant recommendations. 

They also offer great guided tours in Athens. We discovered their service through Rick Steves recommendation for a culinary tour.

Athens, Hydra & Paros

There was one more guided tour for the remaining 3 of us. The Athens Highlights Mythology Tour. Visiting ancient Athens with a mythological spin including which sites were dedicated to which Gods and for what reasons. Athens is obviously dedicated overall to Athena, but beyond that what about Zeus, Poseidon, or our favorite Dionysius. It gave us another perspective on the historical and mythological connections. While at the acropolis near the cliffside the Guide's hat flew off ...onto Alejandra's head, instead of over the cliff. Maybe the gods were watching out for her.

Columns at Temple of Zeus (one standing, 1 under restoration, 1 fallen); Entering the Acropolis through Temple of Athena Nike; Acropolis viewed from the Agora.

For a change of pace, we decided to spend a day on the island of Hydra, about a 90 minute ferry ride. Hydra is quite chic and convenient to Athens but yet it is one of the lesser known islands. Transportation to the island is by ferry or helicopter. On and around the island it is by donkey / mule, horseback, water taxi or foot.

Hydra, pronounced "EE dra", has lots of shops and restaurants, as well as a picturesque coastline and open space. We arrived before many shops were open. Alejandra's first priority was a swim so we set off on a coastal path to a recommended beach. The hike was tranquil but much longer than we expected. So adjusting plans, we found a cafe with a promising beach. Alejandra made for the water. Pat & Bill made for a table and ordered sparkling wine. The water was so inviting that we wished we had brought our swimwear. A mistake we corrected when we visited Paros later in the trip.

We continued our Athens touring with some shopping in Kolonaki followed by lunch at Yoleni, where we had sampled wines, mezes (appetizers) and "Elixirs" on the Streets and Eats tour. We encountered another Changing of the Guard during our wandering. 

For our final evening in downtown Athens, we made a list of wine bars and agreed to stop at the first one that offered bottle tasting and a suitable accompanying snack. We found it, Wine with Eleni, at our first stop. It was just a block away from our hotel, hidden in a little park. That's right, it took us 5 days to discover this gem, passing it daily! Granted it is on a street that never seemed to be on our route. And, as mentioned, it is hidden in a little park.  

Following up on our conversation re Greek wine, Eleni gave Pat a book she authored, "Mount Athos Wine." While we didn't think of it at the time, it is quite remarkable that a woman author was supported in this effort because the monks do not even allow them on the Mt Athos peninsula. But Eleni has several things going for her. She grew up in the area and many monks are grateful to her family for their support over the years. Eleni is well recognized for her wine expertise. And, numerous larger off-peninsula vineyards in the Halkidiki region were donated to the monks over the the centuries. To this day the monks maintain and produce renowned wines from these vineyards.

Left: At Yoleni's (lunch, Elixirs); Guard; Right: Wines with Eleni.

Our final stop on our nearly countrywide tour was the island of Paros, located between Santorini and Mykonos. Typically visitors stay in Paros Town or Naoussa. Both have a great selection of shops, restaurants and lodging. We chose to stay in Naoussa, it has more beach options. 

Arriving on the island midday, we stopped to have lunch and explore Paros Town. One shopkeeper, a fine ceramicist, recommended we have lunch at Aromas. It was excellent. On our way to lunch we passed a handy shop where we all bought swim gear (masks, sand shoes). After lunch and a little more shopping, we continued on to Naoussa and settled into our bayside villa.

A short walk took us to the center where we found two wine shops and decided Josef's would have the best advice. Our first clue: Their sign advises that "Wine is the Answer, I don't care about the question". They also seemed to have a great selection. 

Many shops and restaurants lined the alleyways between our villa and the center. Pat and Alejandra pretty much checked them all out and gave the economy a boost as well. One of the favorite shops was Haniotis Jewelry. For an idea of their creative designs, see haniotisjewel.com but honestly their site doesn't do the earrings and cuffs justice. Pat chose a pair that wrap behind the ear giving the illusion of being a full loop. She also bought a large scarf and enjoyed the show as the shopkeeper demonstrated many ways to use it. Alejandra also bought a dress, and another dress and another dress... and other stuff.  Admittedly she has an eye for clothes and when she might use them. But we were amused when she would say "OK, that's it. I am done now." Knowing that soon she would find another great piece. 

Dining at Yemeni Wine Restaurant was highly recommended. Approaching it from our villa, it was basically a straight shot. However we were in the center and approached it from the bay which turned out to be much trickier. Thanks to Google maps, we found our way through the maze of alleys. Along the way we found a wealth of great shops! 

The food was amazing and we dined there twice. The wine selection was small but well curated. And the sommelier readily recommended the perfect wines to pair with our orders. 

Top L-R: Orange cake with nuts & chocolate; Paros wine from Thapsana (in the center of the island); Pumpkin Risotto; Bottom L-R: Fish Ceviche, Sea Bass Duo (grilled and fried); Shrimp with squid ink-amazingly delicious!

Interestingly most of the beaches were basically for wading, very few swimmers. The beaches were typically small with rocky shores and a small sandy beach area. Each had its own character and sufficient but limited services (lounges, bathrooms, food and drink). We waded and swam a little at Livadia, Santa Maria, and Kolympethres Beaches. Alejandra swam a lot more around our villa. Every morning. And every other chance she got.

We spent a day at the beach on Anti Paros, a short ferry ride away. Note that you back onto the ferry!! A bit tricky with a rental car... The Soros Beach Resort had facilities typical of larger resorts around the world. As for the beach itself, the bottom drops off more quickly here, and there were more people actually swimming. The amenities were better here as well, including the availability of Veuve Clicquot champagne (and the distance to Reims, the home of Veuve; 2175 km / 1350 miles just in case you were wondering). They also have comfy giant bean bag cushions shaded by palapas that make for an interesting tattoo look. 

We had a 4:55 flight to Athens. After checking out of the villa, we made for Lefkes, a small village in the higher elevations of the island. It is very picturesque with shops, restaurants, churches, and views of the surrounding terraced countryside. From there we returned to Paros Town for a late lunch before heading to the airport.

An unexpected experience on this trip was IST, the Istanbul International Airport. Opened in April 2019, it is a marvel. First, we arrived at 11:30 PM and departed at 2:30AM and the place was hopping. Shops, restaurants, and lounges all open. Plus they provide signs with walking times to the various gates and tricycles to ride, as well as powered wheel chairs (the person assisting also gets to ride). The second floor Turkish Air lounge is massive with numerous areas to pickup drinks and snacks, work, watch the shoppers below, or just relax and listen to music. 

FYI: Per Wikipedia, in terms of total passenger traffic IST is the busiest airport in Europe and 13th-busiest airport in the world. In terms of international passenger traffic, it is the 2nd-busiest airport in the world

We arrived in Mexico city on schedule, around 8:30 am, and we had a quick trip to San Miguel.

Nafplion and a revisit to Athens

We stopped in Nafplion for a few days of touring, wining and dining. 

The huge Palamidi Fortress dominates the clifftop above the city while the Bourtzi, a fortified island, adds a scenic touch to the harbor and ambiance of the city.

The narrow streets of the old town are lined with shops and restaurants with outside dining. The harbor front makes for a nice evening stroll. 

The nearby ancient site of Mycenae, second millennium BC, was one of the centers of Greek civilization and dominated much of southern Greece as well as Crete and the Cyclades. The population of the site peaked at about 30,000. The lion gate, bottom left below, is one of its most known features. 

Top L-R:  Map of trading partners and goods; view from ancient Mycenae; "Grave Circle A" - round cluster of graves of Mycean royalty. Bottom L-R: Gate with huge sculpted lions; ancient sculptures of women; fine vase.

We made a morning visit to Epidaurus, reputed to be the birthplace of Apollo's son, Asclepius the healer. It is best known for its sanctuary, the Asclepeion, with its theatre, which continues in use today. Epidaurus was the most celebrated healing centre of the Classical world. To find out the right cure for their ailments, patients spent a night in the "enkoimeteria", a 160 room sleeping hall. In their dreams, the god himself would advise them what they had to do to regain their health. 

The acoustics of the theater are renowned. A pin dropped in the center can be heard throughout the theater. At its peak, the theater could seat 40,000. Today it seats less than 15,000.

Top L-R: Medical instruments, Statue of Asklepios holding his staff with the snake entwined around it, the Theater, 4 of us with our Austrian friends (met in Monemvasia), Remains of the dormitory for patients.

There are fun shops in the old town. We gals enjoyed making shopping jaunts in our spare moments. Below Alejandra is looking at dresses. 

We enjoyed the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation with its displays of costumes of the Peloponnese. There are also lots of sewing machines, beautiful dolls, cute teddy bears and other toys. At the Archaeology museum there were the usual vases and sculptures but also some interesting glassware and some "votive shields" made of terracotta. These sacred shields featured scenes such as a "tall warrior slaying a skirted Amazon." These are thought to be some of the earliest graphics depicting mythological characters.

 At the Archaeology museum, there was an exhibit about Carnival (pre-Lent celebration) with the lovely costume shown below. When we returned to the main square we noticed a Botero copycat poster. (Botero is from Columbia and we enjoyed lots of his work in Medellín when we were there in 2019. For some reason we have a soft spot in our hearts for his work.) 

We enjoyed light snacks and wine at Mediterraneo Wine and Deli with the gang...

and an evening wine tasting at Cellar Vellini with Alejandra. Note the reflection in the mirror.

After our visit to the Palamidi Fortress we headed down into town and stopped at Pidalio for lunch. We enjoyed it so much we returned for a second meal later in our visit. The menu featured a blend of seafood and traditional Greek dishes. All excellently prepared.

On the way back to Athens we made a short stop at the Corinth Canal. It was completed in 1893, connecting the Ionian Sea with the Aegean Sea. It is too narrow (87 feet) for many modern ships and has little commercial value except as a tourist attraction today. 

After disposing of the rental car and settling into our hotel we ventured out returning to the Psyri district near our first hotel. We had a "light snack" at Little Kook, a "themed" coffee and dessert shop. The decor is hilariously over the top. The cakes and pies are scrumptious.

We continued our stroll through Psyri and stopped at Wine on Tap. It features pairing Greek wines with pizza. The following chart says it all.

One final guided tour, Streets & Eats, took us to some familiar neighborhoods from our earlier stop in Athens but this time we focused on food. We started the Eats part at Yoleni’s Greek Gastronomy Center. We enjoyed the tasting (of cheese, condiments and wine). Yoleni's offers a deli, great wine selection, a cafe, cooking classes and more. The Jasmine and Isis Elixirs were good enough that we returned later so Alejandra could get some.

We viewed the Holy Metropolitan Church (top left and center) and toured the Varvakios Central Market (top right). We stopped at Miran Deli (bottom left) and then moved on for lunch at Taverna tou Psirri (bottom right) we stopped for dessert at Baklavas (bottom center).

The Benaki Museum of Greek Culture is housed in a beautiful neoclassical-style building in the Kolonaki (near Parliament). The museum has Greek works of art from prehistoric to modern times. Despite having enjoyed lots of folk costumes at the museum in Nafpolion, Pat continued to enjoy the exhibits of the many typical outfits worn throughout Greece. 

We had our farewell dinner for Dave & Shelly at Strofi, a very fine restaurant near our hotel with a view of Acropolis.

Biz School Buddies, Mani Peninsula, & Monemvasia

Shortly after having learned of Kardamyli and the Mani Peninsula from Rick Steves' book "Greece, Athens and the Mainland" Pat realized that Paul Varotsis, a business school classmate, has a home in Kardamyli. Paul invited us to visit and the timing worked such that Mark (another classmate) and Rosemary Keatley were able to visit at the same time. This also provided the perfect time & place for Alejandra Martinez (yet another classmate and friend from Mexico City) to join our little tour.  

It seems that Paul and Agnes had been renovating an historic property for roughly 10 years (what with all the normal building codes and the ongoing list of requirements to maintain the history and likely the ecology of the spot.) I believe this was their first season to actual stay in their new house. 

We had a great time visiting and dining with one another, as well as exploring the countryside and enjoying Kardamyli and neighboring coastal villages (Kastania, Old Kardamyli and Stoupa.)

Mark & Rosemary; Alejandra, Mark, Paul, Pat; Pat & Alejandra; Pat & Bill; Paul & Agnes; Note: Behind the arch is the Mourtzinos Tower which had stables & storeroom on ground floor, and living space on the top two floors.  

Paul and Alejandra started each day with a swim around the point. Alejandra takes a lot of good selfies. Bill photobombed a couple of her selfies with the octopus mosiacs in Paul and Agnes's decor. We and Alejandra added a little touch of Mexico to that decor as a thank you for the Kardamyli experience. The vase is a Mata Ortiz piece from northern Mexico. It has a Greek flair that works very nicely in their home.

View OF the house; View FROM the house; Church decorated for a wedding; Octopus mosaic; Mata Ortiz vase

In nearby Stoupa is the creatively named Εστιατόριο "Στούπα" / Stoupa Restaurant. It is apparently one of the best in the area and in our experience, it lived up to that acclaim. The menu looks amazing. Paul did all the ordering and did an admirable job of it. But while we recall a series of tasty dishes, we were too busy catching up to recall the foods in detail. Mind you there was one disappointment. Here and pretty much everywhere around the Mani Peninsula, the wine list options are "Red, White, or Rose". They were good but disappointing for wine lovers hoping to experience the widest range of fine Greek wines possible.

The Mani is noted for its dramatic views of and from its many deserted (or nearly deserted) cliffside villages. Interestingly enough, it is drawing a lot of renovation work which in time will change the character of the area. (Much as our home town of San Miguel de Allende Mexico has evolved in the 16 years we have been here. We still love the place but it is very much more of a city than the small town we moved to.)

After wandering around the town of Kastania, enjoying the views and checking out the Church of Agia Sophia  (1 of 10 Byzantine churches in Kastania), we moved on to the Almyriki Tavern on Kalogrias Beach in Stoupa. The Tavern provided a fine lunch and a great hangout for the nearby beach. 

Exploring Kastania and Old Kardamyli: Church of Agia Sophia - top left. Church Agios Spyridon - lower left.

As part of the major renovation of their house, Paul & Agnes renovated the outside of the neighboring church. As a result it has become an appealing spot for weddings and other sacred ceremonies. We were there for the first wedding in recent years. It was charming. And pretty cool to see the bride arrive by boat! The next day there was a baptism. We see a trend here...

A wedding at the chapel next to Paul's house. The bride arrived by boat! Lunch at Dioskouri Taverna overlooking Paul & Agnes's fabulous home on the point and the whole group at the departure dinner.

The now group of 5 continued the Peloponnese tour. On the road to Areopoli we wound our way through hillside and seaside villages with stone buildings and churches; all picturesque and in varying levels of decay (or renovation.)

On the way to Areopoli

We wrapped up the day with a stroll around Areopoli and dinner at nearby Limeni with a fine sunset and half moon. 

Aeropoli town & environs

We ventured further down the peninsula and got some great views and, near the tip of the peninsula in Porto Kagio Beach, lobsters and other fine seafood for lunch. 

On our way back to Areopoli we encountered more photo ops including some traditional traffic on the road.

Gythio, port city for Sparta in ancient times, made a nice break in the drive to Monemvasia. We enjoyed the short walk out to the marble clad lighthouse and lunch served in an interesting fashion...as one big dish for the table.

We arrived in Monemvasia and were met by our porter. He wheeled our luggage to our hotel, about a 15 minute jaunt through narrow cobbled walkways.

The lower town is where the hotels, restaurants and shops are located. 

The upper town, a short uphill hike (see that cliffside below, the upper town is at the top of that), is a collection of ruins with some spectacular views over the water. We met an Austrian couple here that we encountered several more times over the next few days.

We spent one afternoon/evening outside the village at a local winery, tasting the wines and olive oils and then dining on some nicely paired food.

Our drive to Nafpoli took us near another ancient site, Mystras. The city sprawls up a hillside. We spent half a day wandering the lower part admiring the churches and views. After a refreshing and rejuvenating lunch we continued our drive to Nafpoli.

Preveza to Pylos - the West Coast of Greece

 After our morning explorations of Papingo, we headed south to Preveza, a seaside city located on the southwestern tip of the Mainland. For us it was the halfway point to Olympia. 

We settled into our hotel and then headed out to find lunch. We almost immediately found ourselves on the nearby shopping street, beyond which we discovered a food court of sorts, a network of alleyways inhabited by numerous restaurants. The Mermaid caught our eye and luckily it was open since most apparently closed around 2:00.  We entered just as a downpour started. And then the wind picked up. The staff  tightened all the blinds and continued with our meal service. We enjoyed the tasty seafood and the affable service. So much in fact that we chose to return another time. 

Lunchtime starters (Broad beans and Roasted peppers), an ice cream "billboard" entices us to have dessert.  

While Preveza seems to be quite a thriving town, the shopping hours there were hard to understand. Overall I guess they were 9-2 & 5:30-8:30...except many are closed Sundays and maybe an evening or two! Needless to say, we got little shopping done in Preveza. It's their loss. 

Despite never catching stores open, we found this display of sneakers and high-heels eye-catching. We are not sure how you would clearly indicate which of the shoes catches your interest...

A few landmarks of Preveza include the Venetian Clock Tower, the castle of the Pantokrator built by Ali Pasha under the Ottomans in early 19C, and the harbor.

About a 1 hour drive north is Parga, a small resort city with an island vibe. It serves as a ferry stop from Corfu and other Ionian Islands (the Islands in the Ionian Sea, between Greece & Italy). 

There's not much to do in Parga other than stroll along the waterfront, take photos of the colorful houses and nearby islands, shop at the boutiques, study the many menus to choose the best place for lunch or catch a few rays on the beach. In other words, it is your typical romantic resort town. We were in the mood for "little fishies", aka anchovies, sardines or smelts and chose accordingly.

Parga: The beach, View of the castle from the beach, view of town from the castle.

Near Parga, the Acheron River reaches the sea. The Acheron is one of the rivers, including the River Styx, considered mythical entry points to the Underworld. Apparently the rivers converge at the centre of the underworld on a great marsh, which is also referred to as the Styx. What better place to erect a Necromanteion, an ancient temple dedicated to necromancy, aka communicating with the dead. Of course this felt pretty special for folks who live in Mexico where the Dead mainly communicate with us on Dia de los Muertos.  

The remaining buildings date back to the end of 4C BC. The main sanctuary was surrounded by rooms for preparing to meet with the Oracle of Death. Below the sanctuary, was the Palace of Hades & Persephone with 15 arches. It was through here that the souls emerged for consultation. The sanctuary operated continuously for about two centuries. With the conquest of the area by the Romans, it was destroyed in 167 BC. 

Now, the real question is: Is it really just a fortified farmhouse of the 3C BC era? At least a handful of archaeologists think so. But we prefer the Necromanteion story.

Shots of the Necromanteion, the coastline accessible by switchbacks, and the local marsh (could it be the great underworld marsh known as the Styx?)

With a little more time we might have visited the Acheron Springs noted for the beautiful aqua waters which would be fun to play in on a warmer day (the waters are noted to be quite chilly).

Closer to Preveza is the Zalongo Monument, a touching memorial to the early 19C roughly 60 local women and children, who committed suicide by jumping off a cliff, rather than submit to slavery under Ottoman rule. Completed in 1960, it is as tall as a five-story apartment building and stretches across the equivalent of two city blocks. It is a spectacular piece crowning the 2600 ft clifftop of Mount Zalongo. All the more impressive considering that the building materials were taken up the cliff by human and pack animal labor. 

Despite its difficult location, the monument receives 30,000 to 35,000 visitors a year, who brave the 410-step footpath. Count us among them.

Even closer to Preveza is Ancient Nikopolis, "the city of Victory", founded in 29 BC by Caesar Augustus to celebrate a military victory. By early Christian times the city had been reduced to almost a sixth of its previous size, and strong fortification walls, known as the Christian (Byzantine) Walls, were then built. It is said that the Church of Nikopolis was founded by Paul the Apostle. The city was abandoned by the Byzantines in the 13C. 

Unfortunately the grounds and museum were unstaffed with access blocked due to Covid but we caught a few glimpses of the ruins. The most impressive were the extensive Christian Walls and The Odeion, a small theater.

The Odeion (a small theater), the "Christian Walls", local traffic, and impressive wildlife.

While in Preveza, we enjoyed dining at:

• Rebetiko Steki (in the food "court" )
• Alati Seafood & More (on the Harbor)
• Me Zev (in a cul de sac just up from the clocktower)

Dishes from Preveza including salad with roasted cheese, fish being deboned, baklava, and a chocolate tower

We decided that a stop in Olympia enroute to Pylos (at the southwestern end of the Peloponnese Peninsula) would be sufficient. It was a long driving day but we all prefer to minimize the number of overnight stops.

As is well known, Olympia is  the birthplace of the Olympic Games. Founded in the 8th century BC it hosted the Olympic Games from 776BC - 393 AD (that is more than 1000 years). Among the notable remains are the temples of Zeus and Hera. The former once held the monumental gold and ivory statue of Zeus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Nearby, is the workshop of the statue’s sculptor, Pheidias. (Pheidias is also noted for his sculptural work on the Parthenon.) Also still visible today are some of the ancient sports facilities such as the stadium, the gymnasium and the Palestra (wrestling school) where athletes trained.

Replica of one of the Pediments of the Temple of Zeus, toppled columns of the Temple of Zeus, columns of the Palestra, Statue of Roman Emperor Hadrian, model of the site

After visiting the site and the museum, we continued on to Pylos. The town has enchanting views over the water throughout the day. The same views were also available from the balconies of our seaview rooms at the Karalis Beach Hotel. If you are ever in the area, please note that this was pretty much the winner hotel of our trip. The rooms are beautifully and comfortably decorated and the breakfast and breakfast service were excellent. We all agreed that we would have liked to stay another day or two here.

Pylos has the largest natural harbor in the Peloponnese. Called Navarino Bay, it is fondly remembered by Greeks as the ultimate (winning) clash of the Greek Revolution.

Navarino Bay is flanked by two castles/fortresses, Pylos Castle (Neo Kastro or new castle) and Old Navarino Fortress. Below are the photos from Pylos Castle. The Old Navarino Fortress will have to wait until next time.

At the very tip of the peninsula, Methoni (referred to as Pedasus by Homer) has been recognized as a strategic location throughout history. It was first fortified in 4C BC and occupied by the Romans, and then by the Byzantines in 6C AD. The castle was built by Venetians in 1209AD. The Bourtzi, a small islet to the south of the castle was built after 1500. It consists of a two-storey octagonal tower, surrounded by a low wall, ending in a circular dome. Each floor has a parapet with battlements, and there was a (extremely valuable) cistern on the ground floor. 

We could have stayed in the Pylos area a few days longer just for the views, dining, and the service at the Karalis Beach. But more touring called to us.

On our way to Kardamyli we visited two other ancient sites. 

The Palace of Nestor is the best preserved Mycenaean palace discovered. It is the primary structure within a larger settlement, once probably surrounded by a fortified wall. It was a two-story building with store rooms, workshops, baths, light wells, reception rooms, a sewage system and a bathroom complete with sink & tub. The palace is referenced in Homer’s “Odyssey” & “Iliad.” On the way into the site is a Tholos, a tomb in the shape of a beehive (a typical tomb of the Mycenaean era).

Ancient Messene was the most prominent city of the entire region during the Hellenistic and Roman Periods. It was founded in 369 BCE after the defeat of Sparta by Athens. 

Typical views of Ancient Messene including view from restaurant above and a marble statue from the temple of Artemis 

After lunch overlooking the Messene site we made our way to Kardamyli.