Genoa / Genova

 Thursday Oct 12

To get to Genoa we took the same train as the one to Alba. After a short down-hilll walk from train station we reached our apartment located at the end of the Galleria Giuseppe Garibaldi (tunnel). It was immense with an upstairs loft complete with huge bathroom (separate bathroom downstairs). After dropping off our luggage we went to lunch at Ristorante Gala Vino e Cucina, a nearby cafe (small family place). We enjoyed:

• White trofiette with classic pesto, green beans and potatoes
• Seabass rolls in lettuce leaf on shell fish cream
• Baked stuffed anchovies on bean cream
• 1/2 liter wine
• Blancmange with Kentish cherries and fresh basil

After lunch we took the elevator from the middle of the galleria up to Belevedere Montaldo for some views over the city and harbor.

Friday

The splendor of the Palazzos of Genoa (referred to as the Palazzi dei Rolli) was recognized by awarding them to host visiting aristocracy…with no option of refusal. In 1576 the palaces were entered on the roles (Rolli) recognizing their varying levels of magnificence and required to host visiting dignitaries or corresponding rank. UNESCO recognizes 42 Palazzi dei Rolli, among the 100 existing ones. Genoa celebrates its Palazzi dei Rolli with the Rolli Days. For two weekends a year these palaces are opened to the public and uncover their treasures. We were there for one of the two weekends. Unfortunately they were totally sold out. Luckily we could visit a couple on Friday. We chose Villa Rossi (Red) and Villa Bianco (White). 

Visiting them required navigating the Caruggi, a labyrinth (the largest in all of Europe) of shady alleyways, up and down the hillsides of the city. 

We stopped for lunch at Il Cadralo:

• Cono acciughe, totani e panissa fritti / Cone of fried anchovies, squid and bite-sized chickpea fritters
• Minestroni con pesto / Minestrone with pesto
• Coniglio alla ligure / Rabbit ligurian style

We had left our stash of snacks in the fridge in Torino so in the afternoon we went out to shop for our breakfasts and snacks. However we were not inspired by the breakfast options at Carrefour.

Saturday

We were more successful shopping for breakfast pastry in the morning and found some great foccaccia too. We had no luck at the Acquarium, it was fully booked for the day.  We opted to see the Biosfere (birds & butterflies) and walked around the historic center and Old Port. Some interesting architecture plus a replica Pirate Ship (Vascello Neptune made for the movie Pirates). The decoration of exterior walls of the Palace of St George were quite impressive.

Lunch was at Soho near the port.

• A LVNAE Vermentino
• Trofie pasta with Genoese pesto
• Ravioli stuffed with sea bassin a sauce with olives, pine nuts and dried tomatoes
• Grilled mixed seafood with veggies of the season

Sunday

We arrived early to the Aquarium and had no difficulty in getting tickets. It features many fish, touch areas, sea horses, rays, frogs, turtles, a lizard that camouflages itself in green leaves, jelly fish…

We had planned to go to a restaurant and then shop. But then we discovered that most shops are closed on Sunday. It also seems everyone goes out to eat (with reservations...yes we encountered this in Milan, but did we learn? No.) We struggled to find a restaurant but stumbled on Il Tondin and were treated to an excellent lunch:

• RAKA a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Canaiolo nero, Tenuta Olmarello, and Castelnuovo di Magra
• The bread was habit forming
• Carpàccio with parmigiano & porcini
• 'E ravieu de sûcca - Ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, with butter, sage, Prescinsêua cheese cream and crunchy hazelnuts (Prescinsêua is a fresh cheese of the Genoa region)
• I ravieu au toccu - Ravioli with Ligurian sauce of shredded pieces of meat, tomato and pine nuts.

On our way back to the apartment we stopped into the Basilica San Siro. We'd walked by it a number of times and it was time to take a peek. A lovely place. 

After a little packing effort we decided to checkout the panoramic views from the overlook accessible from the nearby Funiculare Zecca-Righi. It turns out that Genoa is surrounded by lots of green countryside to the north and the working harbor to the south. Genoa may be on the Italian Riveria but it isn't all that near to the picturesque bits. This overlook is best as a starting point for some promising hikes, not so much for views. Note for a sense of scale, the castle in the collage below might be interesting to visit but it is quite far away. That photo was taken with Bill's 80x zoom lens and then cropped. 

We returned to the apartment to finish packing for the move to Menton France.

Turin / Torino

Thursday

As we were preparing to leave Bellagio Pat realized that she had left her bag at the restaurant the prior evening. Fortunately it was the hotel restaurant and the bag was waiting for us at the front desk. The driver met us at 7:45 for our trip to Milan and the 10:05 train to Turin. The traffic close to Milan was heavy and we were glad we had opted for a slightly early departure from Bellagio. Another enjoyable Frecciarossa train, this time from Milan to Torino.

The 12 minute walk to the rental was via fairly flat via mostly pedestrian streets. We met our charming host, left our bags with him and went off to lunch.

Near the Royal Palace we discovered da Pino & Pino, a local spot and ordered a quite satisfying selection of dishes: 

• Spinach Flan with Toma di Lanzo, a cheese from the Piedmont area
• Aubergine / Eggplant Parmigiano
• Spaccatelle Radiccho (Spaccatelle is pasta with a curved shape and hollowed, split in the centre. It is perfect for traditional, dense sauces).
• Nero d'Avola wine from Sicily 

After lunch we joined our guide for a tour of the Royal Palace. The building is huge and ornate. The decor and exhibits makes for a pleasant two or more hour visit.

It was originally built in the 16C and was modernized in the 17C. We visited the state apartments, the Royal Armory and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud. The “Shroud of Turin” is a 14' x 4' linen cloth that was found to be the burial cloth of Christ. Housed at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist, in Turin, the Holy Shroud has rarely (a few times per century) been displayed publicly in order to preserve it. Yet the chapel (top right of the second collage) was impressive even without the shroud. 

CW from top left: The Royal Palace, Chinese Cabinet, one of the ornate state apartments, table with impressive legs. 

CW from topleft: Knight & horse in armor, Chapel of the Holy Shroud, Samurai armor, Royal Armory Hall.

Later we had a guided wander around the area, a nice orientation to the city center. Our guide pointed out palazzos, museum, churches and (for Pat) shopping arcades and streets. From Piazza San Carlo, in front of one of the most famous cafes, she pointed out a ceramic bull, the symbol of Torino (bull is Toro in Italian). The legend is that one should stand on its testicles for good luck. 

The tower of Palazzo Carignano stand out. It houses the Museum of the Risorgimento. The Risorgimento was an ideological movement that led to a series of political events that freed the Italian states from foreign domination and (somewhat united them politically).

CW from top left: Garden of the Royal Palace; Gorilla by Davide Rivalte; Shopping Arcade; Chiesa di San Filippo Neri; Pat stepping on bull's / toto's testicles for good luck; Palazzo Carignano; Royal Church of San Lorenzo.

After the tour we collected our luggage and officially checked into our apartment, Once we were settled in, we stocked up at our neighboring Carrefour Express (great fruit/veggie selection, meats, cheeses, and wine).

Friday

We were off to the Langhe Region for a wine tasting in Barolo. We took the train to Alba where our wine guide was waiting for us.

First stop: Castello Grinzane Cavour for some views, a look at the wine shop, some  coffee and a sample of Barolo Chinato Vino Aromatizzato dessert wine.

Next was the the Pira winery in the Serralunga area. Pat was too busy taking notes to take photos of the wine tasting other than the listing of wines and a map of the wine region. 

After the tasting we were off to one of the best meals of the trip, at Restaurant Iride in Roddino. It was seriously "out of the way" but the food and service were amazing. We think it deserves Michelin stars! Our meal:

• Amuse Bouche and great bread
• Roasted and creamed cauliflower with hazelnut bread crumbs
• Marinated venison fillet with pepper spiced chips and mixed leaves
• Smoked veal sweetbreads, "jerusalem artichokes ice cream and its honey"
• Porcini meringue, potato and vanilla mousse, chestnut ice cream with truffles
• Della Orto Nebbiolo d'Alba for wine

The food, service, the food itself and the presentation were all superb.

We moved on to a wine tasting at the Stroppiana winery in the La Morra area. We tasted seven Nebbiolo based wines with a variety of hazelnut and chocolate based accompaniments.  

We just missed our planned train back to Turin but we found an alternate sloooow train and got into Turin 10 minutes before we would have if we had waited 45 minutes for the next high speed train.

Our apartment is pretty special. The location is amazing. A short walk to most anything in town. The apartment includes a jacuzzi tub, a sauna shower, wash/dryer, dishwasher, 20 champagne glasses and a wine refrigerator!

Saturday

A break between the tasting tours enabled us to do laundry and catch up on a few other things.

We did manage to partake of a Truffle / Tartufo dinner at nearby Tabui (the name of a dog specialized in sniffing out truffles) .

Menu Degustazione / Tasting Menu featuring both black and white truffles.

• Prasule Terre Alfieri Arneis wine and 
• Appetizer plate with 
• Uovo al padellino / Fried Egg Padellino style
• Fonduta con Tartufo Bianco / Fondue with White Truffle
• Crostino di Paté di Fegatini / Liver Paté Crostini
• Robiola d'Alba e Battuta di carne con Tartufo Nero / Robiola d'Alba cheese and chopped meat with Black Truffle
• Tajarin con Tartufo Bianco / Silky thin strands of pasta with White Truffle
• Filetto con Tartufo Nero e spinacino saltato / Filet with Black Truffle and sautéed spinach

For dessert we had

• Quaglia Vecchio Amaro wine with
• Crumble con Crema pasticcera, scaglie di Cavolfiore e Tartufo Nero / Crumble with custard, cauliflower flakes and Black Truffle

Later we tried booking a train to Asti for our next wine tour only to find out there were NO trains at all to be booked out of Porta Nuevo (the main train station of Torino) on Sunday (or that Sunday. Who knows?). We only noticed this at about 8pm. There were some strikes going on but we had understood it wouldn't affect our travells. NOT. The train was to leave from Porta Lingotto, but the schedule was basically the same as when it leaves from Porta Nuevo, so we had overlooked the different departure point until we tried to book it. We hadn't yet mastered buses or the metro and our train was at 8:45am or so leaving us little extra time. Our host came to the rescue and booked us a taxi. 

Sunday

Our visit to Poderi Gallino winery in the Roero region began with one of their  unique offerings, a Vino Spumonte (sparkling) Arneis. A few wines later including a red (Roero is more known for their white wines) we had a photo op with the father and son team from the winery and a Lamborghini tractor. They told us they think John Deere is a better tractor. Pat's brothers seem to have known that for years. Our visit was during the harvest and there were plenty of grapes around.

At the Boh'em Bistrot in San Damiano d'Asti we dined on:

• Raschera Gnocchi With Black Truffle
• Taglatelle With Mountain Butter And Black Truffle
• Barbera Superior

Later we stopped at the Grasso winery in Barbaresco, where two brothers run the show. There were many large barrels that are used for fermentation in this part of the Langhe. We had been joined by a small group and shared the tasting of 13 different wines including one where we split the cost of a bottle not on the tasting menu. We were glad someone else was driving.

Our return trip to Torino was uneventful, including quickly getting a taxi back to our apartment at the train station.

Monday

We met our guide at the entrance of the Egyptian Museum, the second largest Egyptian Museum in the world. It covers a span of history from 4000 BC to 700 AD. Our 3 hour included papyri, ancient plaques, statues, mummies, sarcophagi, and canopic jars as well as jewelery and other tomb offerings.

Canopic jars  were used for mummified organs. The best known versions of these jars have lids in the shape of the heads of protective deities called the four Sons of Horus. The human-headed Imsety was the guardian of the liver; the baboon-headed Hapy looked after the lungs; the jackal-headed Duamutef was responsible for the stomach; and the falcon-headed Qebehsenuef cared for the intestines. 

CW from top: Canopic jars, tomb offerings, sarcophagus covered with hierogyphics inside, mor sarcophagi

We had lunch at the nearby Solferino. 

• Tagliolini di pasta fresca all'uovo serviti con un gustoso ragù di salsiccia / Fresh egg tagliolini pasta served with a tasty sausage ragout
• Risotto ai Porcini and grilled vegetables
• Along with a bottle of Gattinara (Nebbiolo)
• For dessert we had:
• Barolo Chinato Cocchi ...Barolo wine flavored with Quinine bark, rhubarb and genetian flowers. These ingredients are macerated with aromatic spices including caardamon and mace to yield a nectar good as as both aperitif and digestif.
• Arcass late harvest wine

Tuesday

Venaria Reale Palace, our destination for the day is sort of "in town"...but actually about 5 km from the center. We bought our bus tix the night before and were at the bus stop early. The bus wasn't. Time passed. We called our tour guide and asked if we should take a taxi. That is when we learned of the taxi strike. Finally, about 20 minutes late, the bus arrived. It was packed because during our wait 3 scheduled number 11 buses had not arrived. It was impossible to get to the front of the bus to validate our tickets. Finally about 2/3 of the way, there was space. We gambled. We assumed that given the craziness, there would be no checking. We lucked out, because they are stringent in Torino.

Venaria Reale was originally a Hunting Lodge. Then the Duke who owned it became the King of Sicily and later King of Sardinia followed by King of Italy and the facility grew accordingly. But the climate was better at another palace a few miles away and Venaria Reale became lost in time. It served as a barracks under Napoleon and during WWII. Unesco finally funded renovations in 1997. The effort took at least 10 years. It is restored, but all of the furnishings had been sent to the newer palace. And the soldiers barracked there had not treated the precious architecture well. So it is setup with many borrowed artworks and furnishings, along with videos of life of old. It is amazing how many beautiful features remain.

On our way back to the bus stop we paused at Osteria Passami Il Sale for lunch. We had:

• Tajarinai Funghi Porcini e Salsaccia Cruda di Bra (Reminder: Tajarin is a pasta made of light silky strands. Delightful.)
• Spaghetti alla Chittara All'Amatriciana con Spuma di Pecorino / Spicy pasta with Pecorino foam

The bus ride back was uneventful. We returned to the apartment and Pat went out  shopping... purchasing a Pylone shopping bag (compact for carrying in a handbag) and an iPhone case.

Wednesday

We had a relaxing morning doing the laundry and getting our bags together for the move to Genoa.

A neighboring restaurant Fondoo provided a slightly different menu:

• Raclette from cool one-person burners
• Chocolate Fondue from small 2 person size burners

Bill was still dealing with a bit of a cold so Pat went out shopping and discovered a new shop. Falconeri. Great silk, cashmere and other natural matrials in beautiful colors and at good prices. She bought a few pieces.

Nexst up: Genoa

Bellagio

 Sunday

The pick-up at our Milan apartment and drop-off in Bellagio at Hotel Florence (where we stayed 30 years ago) went very smoothly. Hotel Florence is still a fine hotel right on the lake. Our balcony view was as great as it was before.

Our lunch at Barchetta started with bruschetta followed by fish tortellini with thyme and fried lake fish with sage and a bottle of Vicari Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2020.

After lunch we wandered along the water front through a crafts fair. Pat bought earrings and a cashmere scarf / wrap. Later we had a late afternoon aperitivo on the lake, one aperol spritz and one campari spritz. Our favorite is still Select Spritz but Select is really only something you find in Venice. Our evening meal at Babayaga was simple (a pizza with sausage, zucchini, and artichoke) with a Sa'les Rose (Terre Lariane Vendemmia 2019.) We finished with tiramisu and cafe.

Monday

We shopped up and down the narrow walks / stairways of Bellagio. Pat bought a blouse. (Clothes & jewelry are her kind of souvenirs.)  Along the way we found lunch at  Angelo de Vino. The Benaco Bresciano Rosso DOP "Il Nito" (Cabernet S, Merlot & Marzemino) went very nicely with the buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potato & cheese and the polenta with gorgonzola and walnuts. I'm getting hungry just thinking of this.

Later at Enoteca Cava Turacciolo a multi-course feast with Lombardian (local) wines:

• Rose: l'Aura rose of Schiava Gentile and a plate of mozzerella & prosciutto (Note: Schiava Gentile is described as a light-bodied red wine, like Pinot Noir,  with aromas of cotton candy, strawberry, bubblegum and lemonhead candy. Yet it was good, not as weird as it sounds.)
• Red: Pia de la Tesa (Barbera, Sangiovese, Marzemino, Schiava Gentile) with our main of risotto with saffron and sausage & shaved parmegiano
• Red: Gobbio (another Barbera, Sangiovese, Marzemino, Schiava Gentile) with a selection of cheeses with honey & jam as toppings
• Plus something sweet at the end (Biscotti and Sweet 'cioccolat salame' with whipped cream) accompanied by 2 dessert wines

Tuesday

The Central Lake Tour was an all day experience. A morning and lunch in Varenna, an afternoon cruise ending at a villa, and an evening walk in the gardens of another villa. 

In Varenna we first visited an old mill that is being restored for an olive oil and wine tasting accompanied by 3 cheeses including taleggio and 2 meats (salami, braesola). We bought wine & olive oil. Then we returned to the center and toured the narrow steep streets, got a sweethearts photo shot along the lake and visited a nearby church.

We had lunch at the Victoria Grill in the Hotel Royal Victoria. Bill had the veal with tuna sauce, with a side of potato gnocchi with zucchini, parmigiano, and mint with a red wine (Bardolino). Pat had the trout with lime yoghurt, accompanied by risotto with perch and a Pinot Grigio.

We crossed the lake to Tremezzo (home to Villa Carlotta and the Grand Hotel Tremezzo) and on to Villa Balbianello. Along the way we viewed lakeside villas and towns.

We toured the grounds surrounding Villa Balbianello. The lake views, church, and gardens were expected but not the Humming Bird Hawk Moth (left center). 

Then we crossed the lake back to Villa Melzi in Bellagio and finished the tour with a walk through the grounds of the Villa Melzi to the town center.

That evening we dined on our balcony viewing the lake while sampling local salami with our pepper cheese from Peck in Milan ...with wine we bought that morning at the Olive Mill.

Wednesday

We were off to an exciting start of the day. The top of our agenda: a laundromat. We followed this with Pat ironing clothes with the fresh air from the balcony windows and a view of the lake. Who knew that ironing could be such a pleasant task?

We lunched at La Grota on a Pizza Diavola (Tomato, mozzarella cheese, hot pepperoni salame. Yum!!). The Santarita Roso di Valtellina was a good choice.

After lunch we took a walk around Bellagio & nearby Porto Pescallo.

We chose to have dinner at the hotel's lakeside restaurant. A very fine meal and view over the lake.

• Amuse Bouche - Polenta, purée of dried tomato, wedge of fig, dab of crema
• Starter - Sea-scallops with bacon, in sweet pepper sauce with onions marinated in Campari
• Mains - One: Roasted pike-perch fillet with potatoes, vegetables and cumin butter; The other: Sea-bass fillet with zucchini, cherry tomatoes and olives
• Wine - Otella Lugana Le Creete, Trebbiano di Lugana

We spent the remainder of our time packing for a new destination experience - Torino.

Milan / Milano

Tuesday

Off to Milan. Having found two routes to the nearest vaporetto stop with only one bridge each, the move was a quite manageable, even with our luggage. The high speed train (Frecciarossa) to Milan was comfortable and we arrived on time. After some brief exploration we found the loooong line for taxis outside the rail station. 

We dropped our luggage at the apartment and headed toward the center. Our target was the Galleria Vittoria Emanuel II shopping center, the elegant 19C shopping arcade, noted for its collection of boutiques, architecture, and restaurants with a view of the Duomo/Cathedral. We headed up stairs for the view and stopped at Maio Restaurant for lunch (traditional Risotto with saffron - very al dente; Veal Milanese with cardoncelli mushrooms and black cabbage chips - veal was thick but really just OK).

After lunch we met our guide for a tour starting with the Duomo. There is a forest of lacy spires on the rooftop. Fascinating. Spellbinding.

The interior is impressive as well. They skinny guy who looks like he belongs in a Day of the Dead celebration is San Bartolomeo. I'll let you research why he looks this way. 

We had unsuccessfully tried to get tickets for the opera or ballet at La Scala, so a tour was the closest we got. We visited the museum and the theater, viewing the stage from the second gallery (not the best seats for the opera but THE place see and be seen. 

Our busy schedule left little time to shop for our evening meal so we went to the nearby Grand Hotel for an evening snack.

Wednesday

We shopped our way along Via Dante (a major shopping and dining street). Pat actually bought a pair of jeans. 

We stopped for lunch at Cafe Dante, a street side cafe. We again had traditional Risotto (less al dente & very tasty,) and Veal Milanese (thin & much tastier) accompanied by Amarone Valpolicella Ripasso. For sides we had a tomato salad with mozzarella, maize, olives, and carrots, along with fries served with ketchup and mayo. Finally, Pat didn't have to order mayo specifically. (Note the English menu listed maize instead of corn. Otherwise the translation was quite good.)

After lunch we made out way to Sforza Castle. The towers, fountains, wall paintings, and gardens are well worth a stop. It was particularly interesting to see the statue referred to a the Rondanini Pietå by Michelangelo in his later years (quite different from the one in the Vatican, done when he was young.

On our way home we stopped to get pastries and fruit for breakfast as well as meat, cheese, veggies, bread and wine for evenings.

Thursday

We purchased Metro passes for the long treks around Milan. Very useful for cross city ventures.

The Last Supper viewing is in 15 min. intervals, It keeps the lines down and 15 mins is really enough. It is hard to see because the lighting is dim to protect the artwork. Opposite Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece is a fine piece by Giovanni Donato  depicting the Crucifixion. On our way there is an interesting display about restoring the works after WWII.

Our next stop was The Science & Tech Museum which features many inventions by da Vinci. Planes, parachutes, construction cranes, as well as models of the Pantheon (Rome) and the Duomo of Milan, a "covered war carriage (a tank)", a parachute, and a loom that recreates designed according to the wooden cards.  Nearby we found an Apple Macintosh Classic II. Getting out required not only going through gift shop (as usual with museums), but the rest of Museum (like IKEA).

We happened onto the small but highly regarded Boccon Divino for lunch. Their wine collection is impressive, with a broad selection available by the glass. We chose eggplant parmigiano, and a pasta fresca and asked the owner, chef, sommelier to recommend the wines (by the glass). His pick, a Nero D'avola (Sicily), followed by a Cannanou (Sardinia), and Pantelleria Passito with dessert (biscotti with a very well presented and tasty pastry). A very enjoyable experience.

We found Bascilica Ambrose to be delightful, a refreshing break from massive, ornate bascilicas. It feels rural as you enter with a huge outdoor space for the unbaptized to wait through mass. The interior is indeed massive but with simple decor.

Friday

We took the train to Stresa to explore Lake Lugarno and the Barromean Islands. This was our 3rd visit, but the villas and lake are beautiful enoguh to visit a few more times, if we get the chance.)

Isola Bella and the Palazzo Borromeo is as magical as ever. Pat's favorite room seemed to have faded from the sky blue of 1993 to a paler baby blue. We still highly recommend a visit of the villa and the grounds.

CW from top right: the beautiful baby blue room, terraced garden, yours truly, Isola Bella from the ferry, Belgian tapestry, one of the grottos.

We moved on to Isola Surperiore aka Isola Pescatore (Island of the Fishermen), noted for its fish restaurants, of course. We decided to eat at Pirati. (Yep Pirates). We chose two plates with a mix of local fish, one grilled plate and and one fried. We couldn't identify the fish but one notable one was melt in your mouth bite size pieces.

Isola Madre is all about the gardens and the marionettes-3 theaters. There is an impressive Kashmir cypress (planted from seeds in 1862) that had to be righted after falling during a storm. Getting out took way longer than imaginable. We missed 1 (2?) ferries. 

Once we found our way to the ferry and knew our departure time, we used the Trainline app to schedule our train back to Milan. There was a choice of 1 hr 38 minute run (gives new meaning to slow train). The fast train is roughly 58 min, the later normal regional train takes 72 minutes.  

We decided to spend time in Stresa rather than on the slow train. After wandering a little we found a wine bar named Al Buscion. For wine we chose Gavi de Gavi docg by Picollo, Amarone Ripasso doc by Montesantoccio along with racclette and braesola. Really enjoyable and made up for missing the early ferry.

Saturday

We had to check out the renowned Peck, a gourmet market and restaurant with a mouth drooling selection of pastas, hams, cheeses, wine, and other gourmet fare. Why do we submit ourselves to such torture? And we could only pick up a challengely limited number of items. 

On Saturday the restaurants are pretty much booked ahead for lunch. We eventually got a table at Dal Bolognese. The service was slow but the food was good. We had Smoked Tuna Bresaola with Grilled Artichokes in Oil to start followed by Fillet of Sea Bass with Julienne Cut Vegetables, Fried Anchovies with Tartara Mayonnaise, and a side of Stewed Corallo Beans (flat green beans), with Tomato and Basil

We went back to Peck for another peak, then a last look at the Duomo before heading back to our apartment to finish packing for our move to Bellagio.