Friday, August 2, 2024

Lough Eske Castle

Lough Eske Castle has fine grounds with excellent sculptures, spacious rooms, fine dining and a very interesting gallery with photos taken by Francis Browne. 

Browne, a young Jesuit, was invited to sail on the Titanic. He took his camera along on the journey from Southampton, England. Due to his Superior's order to "GET OFF THAT SHIP" (did the Superior know something no one else did?)  Browne debarked in Ireland before the Titanic sailed to disaster in the North Atlantic. From his short time on the Titanic he took dozens of photographs of life aboard the Titanic. And the Lough Eske now owns the collection. An interesting an unexpected view into the fateful voyage.

Below: Lough Eske Castle, sculptures on the grounds (dragon, geese flying), Bill's hand with some giant nasturtium leaves, photo of Boy with Hoop on the Titanic.

We had a day trip around Sligo and Slieve League. We really didn't know what to expect. Touring around Sligo town we visited the neolithic Creevykell Court Tomb (between 4000-2500BC), some more recent ruins (it's just a fixer-upper), impressive terrain (mountains, cliffs, valleys and water falls), barbed wire fence mended with rope, and sheep to keep the grass trimmed.

Creevykeel Court Tomb is one of the finest examples of a court tomb remaining in Ireland. Dating from the Neolithic period (4000 – 2500 BC) it consists of a wedge-shaped cairn about 150' long, with an oval-shaped court at its eastern end.


William Butler Yeats was an Irish poet, dramatist and writer, and one of the foremost figures of 20C. He received the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1923. Yeats' family moved to  Sligo shortly after his birth. As a young poet he thought of the area as his childhood and spiritual home. He later chose the courtyard at St. Columba's church of Ireland in nearby Drumcliff as his final resting place. A favorite quote from Yeats: There are no strangers here; Only friends you haven't yet met.

Slieve League or Slieve Liag in SW Donegal, at almost 2000 ft high, is one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. These impressive cliffs and nearby countryside make a nice day trip from Lough Eske. 

Along the way we stopped in Killybegs, on Donegal Bay. It is the largest fishing port in the country. It has the most pristine fishing ships you can imagine. They are big and they are colorful, and they sit at home much of the time as they have already taken their quota as allowed under European rules.

In Donegal we discovered a hat factory, a Frida, a phrase we can drink to, and how the local sheep tell you in which season the current rain is falling. 

We were next on to Galway with a stop at Kylmore Abbey and Gardens. 

The most striking feature of Kylemore Abbey is the beautiful structure of the Abbey especially since you typically see it twice (the real and the reflected Abbey). The interior has some furnished vignettes and exhibits about its history. There is a lovely stroll along the Pollacapall Lough (Lake) leading to a Gothic Church and the Mausoleum. There is an extensive garden (accessible by frequent bus service or a very lonnnng walk). The Victorian Walled Garden adds color to the green surrounding countryside. and is stunning when vieweed from the entry gate. We enjoyed the displays sharing the story of the year to year maintenance of the garden. The Head Gardener House was attractive and comfortable, designed to attract the best person for the job. The Connemara ponies add a nice touch.

The property was built in the 1860's by Mitchel Henry as a love token to his wife Margaret. It was later owned by he Duke & Duchess of Manchester and passed on to a group of Benedictine nuns fleeing Belgium in1920. They started a boarding school and day school for girls that is still operating today. 
The extensive walled gardens stretch along some rolling terrain providing some color to the rich green backdrop.There are restored accommodations showing the fairly comfortable life of the Head Gardener and family. 
Our tour through the Coonamara was picturesque even in the rain. Rivers of water cascading down the steep slopes and colorful and striking views along the Wild Atlantic Way. That said we couldn't help but think how much nicer it would be with some sun! (Note: The Wild Atlantic Way is a designated coastal route from the north of Ireland to the south of Ireland. Their logo is WW stretched out to look like waves. Pretty cute.)
The quaint towns of Westport and Cliffden added some color and charm to the drive to Galway.

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