Maine June 2018 (Mid Coast, Portland)

Tuesday we headed back to the coast through Camden for some shopping along the Main Street (Polly bought a hat, Bill bought a shirt). On previous visits we have driven up Mount Battie for the views and enjoyed sailing around the harbors and islands.

Camden Harbor (at low tide). The shops are just off to the left of this photo.

Then on to Rockland for lunch at Cafe Miranda. Lobster Mac-n-Cheese for Polly & Pat, and for Bill a Crabstini (crab and tomato, in a tarragon cream sauce on a foccacia crostini). After lunch, more shopping including a visit to The Wine Seller which has a very fine collection of wines. 

Lobster Mac-n-Cheese

Crabstini

With more time we would have visited the Farnsworth Art Museum with its collection of works from many of America's greatest artists. The museum is especially known for its collection of works by the Wyeths (Andrew, N.C., & Jamie). On other visits we have enjoyed walking out along the breakwater to the lighthouse and touring the Owlshead Transportation Museum.

The hardest thing about passing through this area so quickly is that in recent years many very fine restaurants have developed in the Camden / Rockport / Rockland area. Most of them are only open for dinner which is frustrating for daytrippers. Thankfully Cafe Miranda's is available for midday dining!

We then continued on to Boothbay Harbor and the Harborage Inn. The Inn is located at the top of the Harbor and offers fine views and equally fine breakfasts.


First thing Wednesday morning we, Pat & Bill, took a walk around the harbor and the town to assess locations and access to the best dining, shopping and viewpoints. These towns are all easily walkable but Polly's days of long walks are behind us. Hence a little planning makes life more fun.

The outer harbor at Boothbay Harbor

Decor above the walking bridge that crosses the harbor

The Inner Harbor

Later we visited the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Having opened in 2007 the facility has developed into one of the largest & best gardens in New England. The expansive grounds (295 acres) include the Garden for the Five Senses, Meditation Garden, Kitchen Garden and Children's Garden (which includes numerous smaller gardens each portraying a renowned children story). In addition there is a fine collection of sculptures, the Native Butterfly House, and a wooded shoreline trail. We got a wheelchair for Polly (to preserve her stamina) and signed up for the morning tour which covered all the highlights (except the less accessible shore line trail.)

Picket Fence at the
Children's Garden

Lady's Slipper

Afterwards, we went for lunch at the Boathouse Bistro where we each chose risotto (Spicy Shrimp for Bill, BLT for Polly and Lobster for Pat) and then did a little shopping to work up an appetite for dining at the Thistle Inn later. We didn't build up much of an appetite so it was Clam Chowder for Polly and a shared Flatbread Pizza for Pat & Bill.

Risottos at Boathouse Bistro

Thursday we headed to Damariscotta and down a neighboring peninsula to serene Christmas Cove enjoying the combination of pastoral and coastal beauty along the way.  

We returned for a little shopping in Damariscotta and then had lunch at the River Grill. Great breads, potato latkes and a bottle of Pinot Noir accompanied three tasty small plates (Fried Pemaquid Oysters with spicy Cajun dipping sauce for Pat; Haddock Tacos for Bill; and Smoked Pork nested in a corn tortilla with pickled red onions and cilantro crema for Polly).

On the return to Boothbay Harbor, we stopped at the Edgecomb Potters, a vast collection of artisanal work (pottery, jewelry, & sculpture) from around the area. Before dinner we took a drive to Newagen & Southport (the less touristy side of Boothbay Harbor.

We had reservations at Ports of Italy for dinner. There are Italian restaurants everywhere but this one has an authentic feel and thoroughly Italian menu. Unfortunately our food photographer apparently took most of the the night off rousing herself only for a dessert photo.  


Following the bruschetta we shared asparagi parmigiana. Then Rigatoni alla Norma (homemade pasta with sautéed eggplant) for the girls and Agnolotti di Vitello (handmade ravioli with veal, mortadella and pork stuffing) in a sauce of mixed wild mushrooms for Bill. A Torta al Cioccolato (artisan flourless chocolate cake with whipped cream and raspberry sauce) rounded out the meal.

Friday we headed to Wiscasset, the self proclaimed prettiest village in Maine. Enroute we made a short stop to see the manually operated drawbridge to Barter’s Island. Just before the bridge we spotted a "shack" with an eyecatching display of lobster gear. 

While we were there the owner exited the shack and we had a great discussion with him.  Among other things he regaled us with the story of an American lady he met in Goa India. When she discovered he was from Maine, she launched into a story about the time she and friends were in New Hampshire and, realizing they were close to Maine, they decided to make a daytrip to Boothbay Harbor to visit a shop that specialized in thimbles. It was a longer drive than expected so the shop was closed but a young man allowed them entry through the back and then went on his way. It turns out the young man was, you guessed it, our new friend. ...We know, this is just such a typical story for travelers, but we still find them enchanting.

There was a nice park with an enticing walk nearby the bridge but we decided to continue on to Fort Edgecomb, a two-story octagonal wooden blockhouse that offers panoramic views of the area. The views enabled soldiers to protect the area from both water and land attacks. It was primarily used in the War of 1812.

Wiscasset is not only a lovely town, it is home to Reds' Eats and it's "#1 Lobster Roll". Reds' comes with a long line and outdoor tables. We decided it would be more comfortable and convenient to eat at Sarah’s across the street. We followed lunch with some afternoon shopping before returning to Boothbay Harbor for another dinner at Boathouse Bistro.  

Saturday we moved on to Freeport for shopping at LL Bean and the many outlet stores that have sprung up nearby. Realizing that none of us had ever been to Reid State Park, we took a slight detour and discovered it features sandy beaches and sand dunes—both rare in the state of Maine—plus rocky tidepools, salt marshes, and a tidal lagoon. 

Views at Reid State Park

Next up was Brunswick where we visited the Bowdoin College Museum of Art with its fine collection of classics and contemporary art. We enjoyed the special exhibit of "Winslow Homer and the Camera" which explores the Homer’s use of the camera and his art. Oddly enough, Bill noticed an article about the exhibit in the July 5 Wall Street Journal soon after we returned home.

Night Hauling by Andrew Wyeth 1944 (age 27)...look closely and you can see the lobster trap being pulled out of the water

Magnetic Space by Richard Pousette-Dart
- Try to find a pattern in this!!!

Sun Dance Ceremony by a Lakota Nation artist

We arrived in Freeport in time for a late lunch at one of our favorite spots there, the Azure Cafe. Although it was comfortable outside we wisely chose an inside table and felt smug when others had to move inside to avoid the downpour that soon developed. Nice timing on our part. Then on to our rooms at the White Cedar Inn. 

Bill's Lasagna

Polly & Pat shared an Eggplant Parmesan

Sunday we were off to Shapleigh (very close to the NH border) to visit Bill's cousins Maxine & Irene, Maxine's husband John plus children & grandchildren. We stopped at When Pigs Fly Bakery and enjoyed selecting from the vast offering with roughly a dozen Classic Breads such as Whole Wheat or Cinnamon Raisin and another dozen of inspired breads featuring combinations such as: 

• Baby Spinach, Onion & Garlic Ciabatta
• Red Pepper Hummus with Sesame Seeds & Garlic
• Blueberry & Raspberry w/Lemonade
• Orange,Toasted Walnut and Cranberry

After an enjoyable struggle we made our selections and were on our way to a great family get together.

Despite our plans to spend several nights in Portland, we decided to tour Portland from Freeport and then tour further south along the coast while staying in Portland.  

We started with a visit to a favorite of ours, the very fine Portland Museum of Art. The museum was founded in 1882.  A new addition designed by I.M. Pei opened in 1982. The remarkable collection represents American, European, and contemporary art with artists such as Claude Monet, Renoir, Whistler, and Andy Warhol as well as a large collection of works by Winslow Homer who for many years lived nearby in Prouts Neck.

Blue Savanah (Ipcar)

 Indian Jungle (Langlais)

Chihuly

Dark Harbor Fisherman (Wyeth)

View of Captain John Brown Coyle's House (Harrison Bird Brown)

Confidences (Renoir)

For lunch, we headed to the Old Port for another dose of seafood, this time at Gilbert's Chowder House. The Old Port has many fine shops and restaurants. We all loved the vast selection at the Leroux Kitchen store. 

We stopped at Trader Joe's and Whole Foods to shop for evening meals before returning to Freeport. Our B&B provided a microwave and cooking dishes so we planned to take the opportunity to "eat-in" for a couple nights. One night featured buttercup squash. Another night featured fresh corn. And on both nights the food photographer took time off. 

Tuesday we visited Eartha, the "World's Largest Rotating Globe" in Yarmouth. Eartha (41' in diameter) is located in the lobby of the Garmin building (previously home of Delorame Maps). Back in the day (maybe 5 years ago?) when paper maps were valued, there was a fantastic map shop here. All that's left is Eartha & an office building. Next we drove down to the atmospheric Freeport Town Wharf.  We returned to Freeport for lunch at another of our favorites spots, Linda Bean's Maine Kitchen.

Polly & Bill checking out Eartha

Working at the Freeport wharf

Pat's lobster at Linda Bean's

After lunch we made our way to scenic Bailey's Island & Land's End. Access to the island is via a Cribstone Bridge from Orr’s Island.  The 1,150-foot structure crosses a major tidal flow and is built of massive granite slabs in alternating lengthwise and crosswise layers with open “cribbing” (like a lattice work) between the stones. No mortar or cement is used. The granite slabs are sufficiently heavy to withstand wind and waves, while the open cribbing allows the tide to ebb and flow freely. The bridge is apparently the only granite cribstone bridge in the world.

Cribstone Bridge between Orr's & Bailey Islands 

Layered rock near the Cribstone bridge 

Pier at Bailey's Island

We continued out to "Land's End" for the views. On our way back to Freeport, we rediscovered a small pond with bright water lilies.

Memorial to All Maine Fisherman at Lands End

Water Lily Pond Orr's Island

Wednesday we moved to Portland, our last stop, and more shopping. We had lunch at Taj Indian restaurant. Mom enjoyed the food but thought it was a little spicy. 

Polly sampling Indian food at Taj

Later we wandered over to Cape Elizabeth for a look at Portland Headlight.

Portland Headlight

Thursday was a little rainy so we continued shopping in Portland and had lunch at ISA Bistro. Pat & Polly shared a very fine "Blackened Haddock Caesar". Bill had a panini with shaved local lamb. The wine (Garzon Tannat, a red from Uruguay) was a nice complement to both dishes.

Bill's Shaved Lamb Panini 

Polly & Pat split a Blackend Haddock Caesar

Friday we head south to Kittery (southernmost city in Maine) to visit the Kittery Trading Post and the outlet shops. We took the slow route through Old Orchard, Kennebunk Port, Wells, Ogunquit and York (Nubble Light) for some views of the coast. 

South of Biddeford

Inlet near Wells

Polly at Nubble Light

View up the coast from Nubble Light

For lunch we stopped at Robert's Maine Grill for more seafood including some Lobster Sliders for Pat & Polly and Fish and Chips for Bill. 

Bill attacking the Fish & Chips

Two of the five sliders shared by Polly & Pat

Saturday we headed back to San Miguel. During our stop in Houston we had lunch at Landry’s Seafood. 

Later at our local airport, we learned that the heavy rains that hit the area in June had taken out a bridge on the normal route between SMA and the airport. The alternate route took us over the dam on the major local reservoir, Presa Allende. And, as expected, they were releasing massive amounts of water. Pat caught a photo of the raging torrent as we passed by.

Overflow at the Presa Allende

Aside from all the touring and dining, we found time to play progressive rummy nearly every evening. Fortunately we pretty well shared at winning keeping everyone's spirits high.

FYI. Our next trip will be to celebrate our 50th anniversary on August 24. Somehow we were overlooking the momentous occasion. Fortunately we woke up in time to book 3 days in Champagne and 10 days in Paris. 

Maine June 2018 (Bar Harbor, Moosehead Lake, and family visit)

In May, we gave Bill’s Mom Polly a trip to Maine for her 92nd birthday. We prefer to visit Maine in July because we find the weather to be generally nicer then but we chose to travel in June because we could get reservations at our targeted B&B’s then, plus Ruth Dudley, a friend from our time in Boston (actually Sudbury) would coincidentally be there then as well.

June may sound like summertime to most of you, but in Maine, it is hard to predict. It could be lovely. It could be cold rainy weather. And anything in between. In any event, we decided that the stars were aligned and we committed to a June visit. As luck would have it, it was a great decision. We had very little rain (some one night) and the weather was cool but comfortable. In the meantime, San Miguel was deluged by rain. In fact there was so much rain in San Miguel that a bridge on the typical route to the airport collapsed due to the flooding Laja River...but that's a story for later.

Back to the trip...it was a 3:30 AM wakeup call for our early morning departure to Portland. Wisely we had spent the night near the airport. All went well with the flights. The wheel chair service provided for Polly meant that we breezed through Bush International (Houston) and Regan National (DC) airports. We arrived at our hotel a little after 7 PM. 

Soon we were off to our first meal, which was, surprise!, seafood (lobster bisque, mussels, and fish and chips with a side of roasted veggies.)

Our first significant overnight stop would be in Bar Harbor on Mt Desert Island (home of Acadia National Park). This is roughly a 3+ hour drive if you take the highway. Traveling along the coast through a number of delightful towns adds an hour of driving time and lots of opportunities to explore, shop and eat along the way. We stopped for shopping at LL Bean in Freeport and for pizza in Waldoboro. Upon arrival at the Balance Rock Inn, we connected with the Dudley / Stanfield clan (Ruth and her son-in-law Burns with his age 20-something "children" Liz and Nathan) for dinner at Blaze Restaurant, where most foods, including the lobster, are grilled over blazes of fire.

Grilled lobster, lobster and scallop risotto, halibut with pineapple salsa, and fish tacos were the order of the day. Yep, Burns wanted the tacos. Think he is hinting that he might like to visit Mexico??? We hope so. 

Liz and Nathan headed back to Boston the next morning while Ruth & Burns joined us for a tour of Schoodic Point, a part of Acadia National Park that is across Frenchman’s Bay from Bar Harbor. It’s a long enough drive that few visitors to the Park make it, so we mostly had the place to ourselves. We got off to a slow start so we really didn't do the place justice. In fact we had to pass up Winter Harbor with with it's shops and galleries and the community of Grindstone Neck with it's smoked seafood and exquisite views.

Along our return drive, we found a suitably atmospheric restaurant situated on a cove where Ruth could have the fried clams she had been craving. Polly must have been planning ahead because she dressed perfectly to coordinate with the bouquet on our table.

Saturday, we started the day with an early walk along the "Shore Path" accessed from the Pier in Bar Harbor (and from the grounds of our B&B). The path stretches about 3/4 mile along the shore passing a few of the still surviving "cottages". Note: In the late 1800's Mt Desert Island competed with Newport RI as "THE" place for the "rich & famous" to build elaborate "cottages" designed for entertaining and impressing their peers. Unfortunately most of the ones in Maine were destroyed over the years. The most recent "destroyer" was the "Fire of 1947" which also devastated forests around the island. The cool thing about that fire is that it opened up great vistas that we all enjoyed up through the 90's. But now the forests are growing and those vistas are no more. 

The Balance Rock Inn, a former Summer Cottage

Balance Rock

The shore path

One of the few cottages that escaped the 1947 Fire

We then headed out to enjoy one of the essential activities at Acadia, driving along the "Park Loop Road". The key highlights of the drive are the views - everywhere (despite the above mentioned complaint that some vistas have been blocked by the recovered forestation). A couple favorites are:

• "Sand Beach," a beautiful cove with fine white sand and "refreshing water" that never gets over 55 degrees.  There's a fine view of the beach from the loop road.  Historic note: When Pat worked at Acadia she swam out to the bouys marking the end of the beach.  Upon her return to the beach, one of her friends, a lifeguard, gave her the merry old devil for doing that. He didn't want to be the one dealing with the cold water swimming out to rescue her.  
• Thunder Hole is noted for the thundering made by rocks in a small cavern at the base of the cliff. When the right size wave hits, you know why it is called Thunder Hole. Pat's Mom, the ocean lover that she was, spent innumerable hours here. She noted that the best thundering usually occurs when the mid-tide is "coming in." However the water was so calm while we were there, most visitors were totally mystified by the name. 

A very calm Thunder Hole

View of Porcupine Islands from Thunder Hole

We next headed to the Asticou Azalea Gardens to meet our friends Terry (Pat’s junior year college roommate) and Jim. They live in the Villages in FL but frequently summer in Bar Harbor where they hike the network of trails and carriage roads that span the park. During the peak summer months LL Bean sponsors a bus service that stops at popular trail heads. What a great feature! So much better than having to limit hikes to circular routes or having to drop off cars at both ends of the trail. The Azaleas were in season and the gardens were striking. 

A carriage road bridge. John D Rockefeller Jr built
45 miles of of gravel roads within the park. 
These are limited to hiking, biking and horse carriages.
Bridges are made of the local pink granite.

A lovely light yellow peony  - not an azalea ;-)

We continued on to Northeast Harbor for some shopping and lunch. Later Jim and Polly found a relaxing spot overlooking the harbor. After we parted with Jim & Terry we drove up the winding route to the top of Mount Cadillac for views over the Frenchman's Bay and the Porcupine Islands.

Sunday we travelled to Southwest Harbor and Seawall (a natural stone wall of cobblestone size rocks). Along the way we had beautiful views of Somes Sound (Maine's own fjord) and stopped in the ever so cute town of Somesville with it's white walking bridge and reflecting pool.

Somesville with walking bridge  and reflecting pool on one side of the road
and driving bridge decorated with geraniums across the street.

The lilacs were in bloom and
as fragrant as the color is vivid.

After a short photo stop, we continued on to the Charlotte Rhoades Park and Butterfly Garden. Unfortunately we were too early in the season for its usual vivid display of color.  Next time.

We drove on beyond Southwest Harbor to the natural Seawall, an expanse of cobblestone size rocks swept up by the sea. It's lovely to visit the cliffside, landmark Bass Harbor Lighthouse but chose to avoid the lengthy walk. 

Seawall

View of Southwest Harbor from Upper Deck Restaurant

We enjoyed lunch at the Upper Deck Restaurant in Southwest Harbor where Pat was provided with very much unneeded directions re how to eat lobster. Note: When Pat was in grade school, her Mom taught her how to eat every edible bit of lobster. And she practices the art at every opportunity. 

 .                        

Monday we took a last walk along Frenchman's Bay. Being June there was a cruise ship in port (ships are not welcome in high season). And being Bar Harbor in summer, one of the 4-Masted Schooners that offer short sailing excursions just happened to be passing by.

Then we headed north to Greenville and Moosehead Lake, the state's largest lake (40 miles long and nearly 75,000 acres...more or less shaped like a Moose head). We were on the way to spend a few days with Carol Whitney (a high school classmate) at the Whitney camp on Harford's Point. Enroute we stopped in Dover-Foxcroft for ice cream at Butterfields, a childhood favorite and still very worthy.  See photo below for range of ice cream offerings!!!   The chocolate peanut butter was a hit with both Pat & Polly, Bill enjoyed the grapenut.

We stopped at the Indian Trading Post for a quick look around and to shop for groceries before continuing on to the camp. 

Tuesday was Primary Election Day and Carol needed to take a trip home to vote. We decided to drive further up the west side of the lake to Rockwood. Pat used to visit Rockwood as a child when she accompanied her Dad on his sales trips. (He had a “produce route” that took in as many summer camps and lodges as possible. He would pack the suburban with fresh fruits and veggies, most of which were grown by Pat’s Mom, and act as a traveling farm stand.) 

Along the way we stopped to check out Mt Kineo and family of geese

Needless to say we were stunned while stopped at one of the lodges. Pat’s niece’s son, Cameron (a beer & wine distributor who didn’t even know we were in Maine), had spotted Bill driving by. That he could recognize Bill with such a brief opportunity amazes us. Anyway, we were glad that he chased us and were delighted to meet up with him.

Our final day with Carol included more conversation, shopping around Greenville, playing cards (Progressive Rummy) and listening to the loons.

After three gorgeous days (including an overnight storm) on the lake we took Polly to her niece Mary's house in Stetson and we stayed with our niece Mary and her husband Peter in Garland. But first we toured Dexter, reminiscing of school days there. Then we all had fried scallops for lunch at the Lakeside on Wassookeag Lake. (Note: Garland & Stetson could compete for some element of small-size, so don't expect them on the normal tourist route.)

Friday we walked over to the dairy farm from run by brother Jim's family (wife Sandra, son Kevin, daughters Mary & Alyce and Mary's hubby Peter). Currently they milk around 550 head of cattle with twice per day milking starting at around 2 AM and again at 2 PM. Earlier in the day we learned that one of Polly's hearing aids had broken. So we next we went to Bangor hoping to get it repaired. NO luck but we did find some wine and food for dinner.  

On our walk to the farm we found a gnome at home on a brackett mushroom

Saturday we went to Dover Foxcroft with our sister-in-law Elaine. And, of all things, we got Polly's hearing aid fixed by an audiologist who just happens to have a house in San Miguel!  

We shopped at Bob’s Home & Garden. The store is located in the old Gristmill & Feedstore and the name says it all, you can find anything here for the home or garden. Someone posted to their facebook page, "Has everything I need. From hand made soaps, pet and feed supplies, gardening supplies to beer making kits and kitchenware." Then we drove on to Stutzman's Farmstand & Bakery for lunch. Nice pizza buffet with soups, salads, and dessert.

Sunday we are off to Bangor again. First to see Pat’s niece Lisa and her daughter Sadie (who just graduated from High School), and then to a University graduation party for Angelyn at her parents' (Bill & Alyce / Cameron’s parents) house in Veazie. What a fun group! Good thing because we plan to party with them at Vail this September at Riley's wedding. We were quite amused to meet Angelyn's guy friend who seems like a California-boy. They modeled in front of his camper van (impressively remodeled with his carpentry) and with his self-made surf board.

Anglyn with creative friend...a surfer who made his own board

Monday we picked up Polly and went to visit with her nephew Charlie and family in Corinna. Charlie and Barbara run Thunder Road Farm Stand (& Corn Maze). 

Polly & nephew Charlie

We stopped in Stetson to drop Polly off. 

Polly & niece Mary

We continued on to the Corinth Village Creamery (we shared a banana split) to see Pat's brother Frank, neice Gina and her 6 month old son Risley. 

Later Frank took us on a 4 wheeler tour over the roads and through the woods to see the planted fields of the Thomas Vegetable Farm (run by Frank and his son Paul.)

Next Up:  Maine June 2018 (Mid coast, Portland)