Jordan: Amman & Petra

We spent only a few days in Jordan. The first two were touring around Amman before moving on to Wadi Musa for two days of touring Petra.  After settling into our rooms at the Signia by Hilton we dined on seafood at the 962 Bistro and enjoyed the Jordanian JR Chardonnay, not so much the JR Crispy White.

Our touring around Amman began with the Citadel, the Jordan Archeology Museum, and the Roman theater followed by the Jordan Museum of Popular Tradition. The first three provided some history and architecture of the area while the latter focused on the culture.

Clockwise from top left:

• Statue from Ain Ghazal. Made of lime plaster and reeds and considered among the earliest representations of the human form (Pre-Pottery 8000 to 4000 BCE)
• Ruins of the Temple of Hercules at the Citadel
• Umayyad Palace mosque dome at the Citadel 
• Ivory fragments with carved figures and hieroglyphs at the Jordan Archaeological Museum (possibly Bronze Age) 
• Roman bronze oil lamp, likely dating to the 2nd century AD, found in Jerash. The lamp features a handle sculpted into an animal shape and a lid shaped like a shell. 
• Roman Theatre. Dates back to the 2nd century AD and designed to seat approximately 6,000 spectators. It is known for its excellent acoustics and is one of the best surviving examples of Roman architecture in the world.. 
• Miniature model of ornate dome of the bath complex at Hisham's Palace (Khirbat al-Mafjar), an important early Islamic archaeological site near Jericho.

The Museum of Popular Tradition was filled with costumes and other culturally related items. The collection includes headwear, bead and silver jewelry, and traditional clothing from various regions (desert, villages, and towns). 

Clockwise from top left:

• A very ancient instrument the oud is a stringed instrument found all over the Middle East. It plays a significant role in Arabic music and is often referred to as the "sultan" or "king" of Arab instruments. 
• Desert patrol uniform 
• Traditional Jordanian and Palestinian items 
• A mannequin wearing a traditional Palestinian or Jordanian costume. Different regions have distinct motifs and colors. The outfit includes an embroidered dress, a wide belt, and a sheer head covering
• Traditional Jordanian masks or face coverings. The items feature intricate embroidery and numerous silver or metal coin decorations. The items were worn by both Bedouin (nomadic) and sedentary peoples in the region

We next went to nearby Jarash. Lunch at Lebanese House included a Jordan River Shiraz accompanying a collection of appetizers, a mixed grill and dessert. Good meal.

After our lunch we visited the Greco-Roman city of Jerash with remains from Neolithic (7000 to 1700 BCE), Greek (500 to 31 BCE), Roman (27 BCE to 476 CE), Byzantine (330 to 1430 CE) and Umayyad (first Islamic dynasty / second caliphate 661 to 750 CE) eras.

Jerash is one of the best-preserved Greco-Roman cities in the world with its stunning ruins like the Hippodrome (for horse and chariot racing), Hadrian's Arch, Cardo Maximus (colonnaded street), and a hydraulic (water-powered) sawmill.

In the evening we selected a JR Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay blend with our snacks at Kyra Pool Bar & Grill.

Next morning we were driven to Petra and dropped at our hotel, the Moevenpick Resort, located across the street from the entrance to the site. 

We walked into Petra through narrow rock passageways with towering sides and marveled at the impressive rock formations that had been carved into buildings.

Known as the "Rose City" due to the color of the stone, Petra was the capital of the Nabataean kingdom (4th century BCE–106 CE) and is famous for its unique architecture, and most specifically the structure known as "The Treasury".

Clockwise from top left:

• Entrance Gate
• Rock-cut tombs or dwellings 
• Elephant rock formation
• Pat walking through the Siq, the main entrance to the ancient city
• Entry to the ancient city of Petra in Jordan, specifically the narrow gorge called the Siq, leading to the iconic Al-Khazneh (The Treasury)
• Bill in a narrow part of the Siq

The walk in through the Siq is great but Al-Khazneh, aka "The Treasury", is the iconic structure that Petra is noted for. It is well worth the walk.

Clockwise from top left:

• The Petra Theater
• Pat in front of the Treasury
• Camels resting near the Treasury
• The Urn Tomb, one of the most prominent of the Royal Tombs. The tomb is believed to be the final resting place of King Malchus II. The tomb was converted into a Byzantine church in 447 AD. 
• Royal Tombs complex with elaborate structures carved into the eastern cliff face of Jabal al-Khubtha. The tombs date back to the 1st century AD and are likely the final resting places for Nabataean royalty and elite.

After lunch at Basin Restaurant, we returned to the hotel with the help of golf carts. There are two independent sets of golf carts to ease the trek, Each covers a different segment of the way. In between, walking is required. As well as waiting in line again.

In the evening we returned by golf cart for the Petra at Night Sound and Light show which is displayed on the front of the Treasury. 

The Monastery is the second most recognized landmark of Petra. We saved it for day 2 and accessed it via the back entry through Little Petra. While we waited for the transportation to the start of the hike we visited Little Petra. On the hike to the monastery we were constantly urged to take the easy route, riding a donkey, camel or horse. 

Clockwise from top left:

• Bedouin tents near the entrance to Little Petra
• Bedouin on Camel looking for a paid rider
• Rock-carved structure (temple) at Little Petra. Located a short distance north of the main Petra site, Little Petra is a smaller version featuring similar facades and chambers carved from sandstone cliffs. It is believed to have been a residential suburb of the larger Petra, possibly housing visiting traders traveling the ancient trade routes. 

Along the hike there were great views over landscape, including views of Israel in the distance. 

• A tangle of a tree growing in the stone
• Steps cut into the rock formation
• View over the black mountains into Israel

As we approached "The Monastery" we saw improving views of its dome. We then learned from our guide, that it is not really a monastery. 

Clockwise from top left:

• An early view of the Monastery
• Detailed work on the center dome
• Pat & Bill in front of the Monastery

We next trekked down 800 to 850 steps to the base, near the  Basin Restaurant where we had previously eaten. We had now completed our loop...but we still had to return though the Siq in the heat. We were fine with that because we knew there were those golf carts for much of the route.

Clockwise from top left:

• High cliffs around the path down
• A market on the path down
• Donkey, transportation for some tourists
• Ruins of the Great Temple at the bottom of the steps

As planned we got a cart for the first segment of our return. But when our guide went to buy tix for the second route, he was told that we would have to walk. Don't ask. We don't understand. But we four somewhat hardy seniors buckled down for a long, slow, hot walk back to the hotel. 

We barely made it. And were grateful to sit down for lunch. The seafood lunch was very tasty but very late in the afternoon and did not allow enough recovery time to really enjoy the "chef's table experience" later that evening. 

During the "experience" we helped make three salads and watched the preparation of the upside down rice dish. The wine was very good, a St George Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon blend.

Our return to Amman included a stop at Mount Nebo, where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land before his death. 

Clockwise from top left:

• The location, with it's lovely tile floor, is a popular pilgrimage site .
• Brazen Serpent Monument (also known as the Nehushtan).The monument serves as a reminder of the biblical passage where God instructed Moses to erect a bronze serpent on a pole; those who looked upon it were saved from a plague of venomous snakes. 
• Sign noting the importance of the site
• With good eyesight and weather conditions, you can see the Dead Sea.

We continued on to Madaba for lunch at Haret Jdoudna. Good food. Good wine (a St George Pinot Noir). Good shopping. The shop had fine tile work. We couldn't resist a piece...but we had to ship it. (For the record it was early October. The piece arrived in San Miguel on December 16. There were lots of hang-ups. Let's not dwell on that.)  

After lunch we took a short walk through the lovely town to the Church of St George which is famous for its historic mosaic map of the Holy Land. 

The church was built in the late 19th century on the foundations of a 6th-century Byzantine church. The interior has detailed religious artwork. 

We returned to Amman and began packing for return to Mexico via Istanbul. TheTurkish Air lounge facilities helped pass the time in Istanbul.

Aswan & Abu Simbel

We disembarked from the ship and after a short flight (1pm to 1:40pm) from Aswan we arrived in Abu Simbel (further south near the North Sudan border). It currently sits next to Lake Nasser, the lake created created by the "new" Aswan dam, completed in 1970. 

We stayed at the Seti Abu Simbel Hotel. We spent an afternoon and evening viewing Abu Simbel by daylight and later with a light show and narrative. It is hard to believe but the site was moved from its original location is now under Lake Nasser (formed by the upper / high dam). The carved temples were cut into more than 1000 blocks weighing 30 tons each, moved 65 meters up and 200 meters inland and reassembled. 

The light show and narrative was the best on this trip.

The next morning we were on an early flight back to Aswan and our lodging at the Old Cataract Hotel. 

We passed by the Aswan Low Dam or Old Aswan Dam. It was finished 1902 but was not effective in reducing flooding and supporting irrigation in the Nile delta (even with two height increases).

The Old Cataract Aswan Hotel on the Nile, opened also in 1902. The decor is impressive as are the views over the Nile. Agatha Christie stayed here in 1937 and, inspired by the Nile views, wrote "Death on the Nile".

At the nearby Nubian Museum we viewed artifacts from the Nubian people  who indigenous to  Egypt and northern Sudan.

Clockwise from top left: 

• Ushabtis were placed in tombs among the grave goods and were intended to act as servants or minions for the deceased, should they be called upon to do manual labor in the afterlife. 
• Meroitic Nubian pottery often featured intricate painted or incised designs (patterns like basket weaves or animal scales or like below an image of a crocodile.)
• Illustrations of ancient Egyptian boats and ships
• A block statue depicting the ancient Egyptian official Harwa, the Chief Steward of the "God's Wife of Amun,"  
• Artifacts from 3100 BCE to 2200 BCE
• Artifacts from 2400 BCE to 1500 BCE
• Artifacts from 4000 to 2000 BCE

After the museum we went to a spice shop and market.

The next day we visited to the Unfinished Obelisk. It is believed that it was commissioned by Hatshepsut for the temple of Amun in Karnak. It was the largest ever conceived and during extraction it cracked due to flaws and was buried by sand for thousands of years.

Later we visited the Aswan Dam or Aswan High Dam - built between 1960 and 1970 and has been successful in managing the flow of the Nile. Lake Nasser extends south from the dam past Abu Simbel and  into Sudan. 

Clockwise from top left:

• Soviet-Egyptian Friendship Monument in Aswan, Egypt. The monument commemorates the assistance provided by the Soviet Union in the construction of the Aswan High Dam. It was erected in 1967
• Looking North (down river) from the dam
• Us looking South (Aswan, Luxor and Cairo are behind us)
• Lake Nasser (Abul Simbel and Sudan are south from here)

We enjoyed the nice views of Aswan from a sail that started near our hotel.

Clockwise from top left:

• A felucca (typical Nile sailing vessel)
• Qubbet el-Hawa necropolis (or "Dome of the Wind") serves as the resting place of nobles and priests from ancient Egypt. The necropolis was in use until the Roman Period)
• Sofitel Legend Old Cataract in  Aswan 
• Traditional Nubian village
• Natural rock formation on the bank of the Nile
• The Mausoleum of Aga KhanIII, the 48th Imam of the Ismaili Muslims)

During the sail we stopped at the Botanic Garden, located on an Island in the Nile, and had a pleasant walk through the greenery.

Another evening at a French Restaurant, this time it is the 1902 in the Old Cataract. The food was OK but we thought the breakfast service here was better than the evening service.

Next day we toured a Village accessed by boat with more opportunities to view life along the Nile. 

We visited a home with a pet crocodile and turtle in West Al Kazan. To get to the house  we wandered along a shopping street.

After lunch we returned to the Old Cataract passing an osprey perched along the river.

The next morning we were off to Jordan and, other than some craziness at the very backed up Cairo airport security checkpoint, we had a nice flight on Jordanian Air to Amman.

Nile Cruise

We got to sleep-in before our mid-day transfer to the Lazuli Karnak Dahabia (a traditional Nile cruise boat) in Esna. While the other travelers toured the Karnak site and Valleys of the King and Queen (you may recall we visited these the day before), we had lunch on board. 

After our fellow passengers arrived we began our journey south (up-river) on the Nile with an assist from a tugboat. Later we noticed that when time allowed we sailed (very slowly). The shore varied from desert to green along the river but the desert was never very far away. 

Our destination was El-Hegz where we had dinner and overnighted.

Next day we sailed to El-Kaab, an ancient Egyptian city known for its well-preserved temple ruins, rock-cut tombs, and fortifications. It was dedicated to the goddess Nekhbet, the vulture goddess.

Next we visited the Temple of Edfu, built between 237 and 57 BC and dedicated to the falcon god Horus, it has grand columns and  intricate hieroglyphics.

We continued onward to Fawaza Island for a BBQ and dancing. When we returned to our room we discovered that our towels were now a heart shaped sculpture lit with little candles. And young Amy's was an elephant with stuffed animal friends.

The next sail took us to Bassaw / Bisaw fishing village where we toured the village . Afterwards we had a boat ride with the fishermen where we "caught" fish and crayfish. We tasted some of one family's work, some fresh baked bread.

Upon our return to the ship, we had the opportunity to swim/play in the river. 

We lunched while sailing to Djebej Selsrla where we visited the Temple of Horemheb and a renowned Quarry, the main source of sandstone for many temples and buildings throughout Ancient Egypt, including Karnak and Luxor. The temple  features rock-cut shrines, stelae, and inscriptions 

We sailed on to visit Kom Ombo, a temple dedicated to two gods—Sobek (the crocodile god) and Horus (the falcon god); The temple has well-preserved reliefs, a museum of ancient, mummified crocodiles and a nilometer (top right),. Nilometers were used to measure the clarity and water level of the Nile's annual flood. The readings were crucial for agricultural purposes, determining the expected harvest and assessing taxes for the year. 

We continued to Herdiab Village (one of the oldest villages on the Nile with traditional trade life and farming methods)" for visit with much less of a touristy feel. We saw fresh dates, burros, a husked fruit vine and houses proclaiming their Hag (trip to Mecca) with paintings on their houses including details of their transportation.  Apparently one family has special connections and managed to arrange unique transportation...see bottom left.

We stopped for dinner and breakfast on land on an island near Aswan. The sunset over the water was great.

 

We next sailed to Aswan, our final destination. In the late afternoon and evening we visited the Temple of Philae on the Island of Agilka. This was one of the last places to worship the ancient Egyptian religion after Christianity appeared in 550AD. It is dedicated to the goddess Isis.

 The temple was moved to its new location in the 70's to save it from the raising waters from the new Aswam dam, an amazing engineering feat. Trust me, to our naive eyes, you wouldn't know it wasn't in its original location and its natural weathered state. 

We relaxed and had tea at the Old Nubian Guesthouse while waiting for the evening sound and light show at Philea Temple.

We  completed our cruise and it was time  to disembark...but we needed a couple last photos.